Few Royal Oaks combine historical significance, technical achievement and rarity quite like the reference 25831. Produced to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Royal Oak in 1997, it introduced a complication that had never before appeared within Gérald Genta’s iconic design: the tourbillon.
Although the Royal Oak had already established itself as one of the defining watch designs of the twentieth century, Audemars Piguet chose to celebrate the milestone with remarkable discretion. Rather than producing a commemorative edition built around aesthetics alone, the manufacture unveiled its first tourbillon-powered Royal Oak, demonstrating that the collection had become as important mechanically as it had stylistically.
The Tourbillon
Originally conceived by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795, the tourbillon was developed to counter the effects of gravity on a mechanical movement by mounting the escapement and balance within a rotating carriage. While modern manufacturing has largely reduced the need for the complication as a precision device, the tourbillon remains one of the highest expressions of traditional watchmaking, demanding extraordinary technical expertise and hand finishing.
25
The reference 25831 was produced in exceptionally small numbers across four precious metals, alongside a unique bi-metal example created for the Sultan of Brunei. Only twenty-five examples were manufactured in stainless steel, making it, at the time, the most expensive steel wristwatch ever offered by Audemars Piguet—a distinction that echoed the original Royal Oak of 1972. The architecture of the case is equally fascinating, featuring a concealed winding crown integrated into the caseback. Despite this unusual construction, the watch is powered by the automatic calibre 2875, offering a 52-hour power reserve and a date indication.
Salmon
Among the various dial executions, the salmon dial has become the reference for collectors. Finished with Audemars Piguet’s signature Petite Tapisserie pattern, it features a miniature off-centre time display at twelve o’clock, flanked by power reserve and date indications on smooth-finished subsidiary dials. At six o’clock, the tourbillon takes centre stage beneath a beautifully executed aperture framed by a miniature Royal Oak bezel, creating one of the most recognisable and technically captivating displays ever fitted to the model.
Emmanuel Gueit
Designed by Emmanuel Gueit, whose work would later include the Royal Oak Offshore, the reference 25831 remains one of the most ambitious interpretations of the Royal Oak ever produced.
Equal parts engineering exercise and design statement, it occupies a unique place within Audemars Piguet’s history and among the great complicated sports watches of the modern era.
- reference25831ST
- modelRoyal Oak Tourbillon
