For decades, the Day-Date was the watch of presidents, captains of industry, and world leaders. But somewhere near the very top of Rolex’s catalogue existed another world entirely. A world reserved for clients who wanted more than simply the finest watch Rolex could build. They wanted the most exclusive one. Produced in 1991, this reference 18388 belongs to that world. Factory-set with a diamond bezel, diamond lugs, a diamond President bracelet, and a champagne dial featuring extraordinary blue sapphire baguettes at every hour, framed by brilliant-cut diamonds marking every minute, it represents Rolex at its most ambitious and unapologetically luxurious.Sapphires & DiamondsThe beauty of this watch lies not in the number of gemstones, but in the way Rolex chose to arrange them.Let's start with the dial. Executed in matte champagne, it features a captivating gem-set configuration. Rather than limiting the baguette markers to six and nine o'clock, as seen on most gem-set Day-Date dials, this example features a blue sapphire baguette at every single hour. Between them, brilliant-cut diamonds occupy every minute position, creating a rich composition. The factory diamond-set bezel immediately catches the light, followed by the diamond-set lugs that give the case a presence few Day-Dates possess. The President bracelet continues the story with factory diamond-set centre links, creating a seamless flow of gold and diamonds around the wrist. 1990sThe early 1990s were years of extraordinary confidence. Oil wealth throughout the Gulf, booming financial markets across Asia, and a new generation of entrepreneurs whose success was reflected in what they wore. It was an era when jewellery and fine watches were worn, and success was something to be celebrated rather than understated. Michael Jordan was redefining basketball. Mike Tyson filled arenas around the world. Hip-hop was rapidly becoming a global cultural force, with artists such as Tupac Shakur and The Notorious B.I.G. turning yellow gold, diamonds, and Rolex into symbols of ambition and achievement. At the same time, royal families throughout the Middle East, influential Hong Kong businessmen, and figures such as Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei were assembling some of the most extraordinary watch collections the world had ever seen. This feels like exactly the kind of Rolex that travelled between Riyadh, Kuwait City, Hong Kong, Singapore, Beverly Hills and New York rather than Geneva or London. ConditionThe watch remains in exceptional overall condition.The case retains thick, beautifully defined lugs, while the President bracelet remains remarkably tight and substantial on the wrist. The matte champagne dial is beautifully preserved, with all original lume plots fully intact. They have aged gracefully over the decades and continue to complement the rich tones of the gold case and the deep blue sapphire hour markers. At Collectors Gallery Dubai, it is references like this that continue to fascinate us. They remind us of a period when Rolex was willing to push the Day-Date far beyond its traditional role, creating extraordinary pieces for an equally extraordinary clientele.

For decades, the Day-Date was the watch of presidents, captains of industry, and world leaders. But somewhere near the very top of Rolex’s catalogue existed another world entirely. A world reserved for clients who wanted more than simply the finest watch Rolex could build. They wanted the most exclusive one.
Produced in 1991, this reference 18388 belongs to that world. Factory-set with a diamond bezel, diamond lugs, a diamond President bracelet, and a champagne dial featuring extraordinary blue sapphire baguettes at every hour, framed by brilliant-cut diamonds marking every minute, it represents Rolex at its most ambitious and unapologetically luxurious. Sapphires &amp; Diamonds <meta charset="utf-8">The beauty of this watch lies not in the number of gemstones, but in the way Rolex chose to arrange them. <meta charset="utf-8">Let's start with the dial. Executed in matte champagne, it features a captivating gem-set configuration. Rather than limiting the baguette markers to six and nine o'clock, as seen on most gem-set Day-Date dials, this example features a blue sapphire baguette at every single hour. Between them, brilliant-cut diamonds occupy every minute position, creating a rich composition. 
The factory diamond-set bezel immediately catches the light, followed by the diamond-set lugs that give the case a presence few Day-Dates possess. The President bracelet continues the story with factory diamond-set centre links, creating a seamless flow of gold and diamonds around the wrist.
1990s <meta charset="utf-8">The early 1990s were years of extraordinary confidence. Oil wealth throughout the Gulf, booming financial markets across Asia, and a new generation of entrepreneurs whose success was reflected in what they wore. It was an era when jewellery and fine watches were worn, and success was something to be celebrated rather than understated.
Michael Jordan was redefining basketball. Mike Tyson filled arenas around the world. Hip-hop was rapidly becoming a global cultural force, with artists such as Tupac Shakur and The Notorious B.I.G. turning yellow gold, diamonds, and Rolex into symbols of ambition and achievement. At the same time, royal families throughout the Middle East, influential Hong Kong businessmen, and figures such as Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah of Brunei were assembling some of the most extraordinary watch collections the world had ever seen.
This feels like exactly the kind of Rolex that travelled between Riyadh, Kuwait City, Hong Kong, Singapore, Beverly Hills and New York rather than Geneva or London. 
Condition The watch remains in exceptional overall condition. The case retains thick, beautifully defined lugs, while the President bracelet remains remarkably tight and substantial on the wrist. 
<meta charset="utf-8">The matte champagne dial is beautifully preserved, with all original lume plots fully intact. They have aged gracefully over the decades and continue to complement the rich tones of the gold case and the deep blue sapphire hour markers. <meta charset="utf-8">
At Collectors Gallery Dubai, it is references like this that continue to fascinate us. They remind us of a period when Rolex was willing to push the Day-Date far beyond its traditional role, creating extraordinary pieces for an equally extraordinary clientele.

Title

Rolex Day-Date 18388 'Blue Sapphire Baguette'

Among all vintage complicated wristwatches ever created, few references occupy the same exalted position as the Patek Philippe reference 2499. Revered for its elegance, technical sophistication, and extraordinary rarity, the model has long been considered one of the ultimate expressions of twentieth-century watchmaking. Yet even within the already rarefied world of the 2499, there are examples so extraordinary that they transcend collecting altogether. This watch is one of them.Black DialPresented in yellow gold and fitted with a glossy black dial, this example is not merely one of the rarest configurations of one of the most celebrated wristwatches ever made; it is the only publicly known example accompanied by an Extract from the Archives explicitly confirming the black dial. The manufacture was, and remains, one of the most conservative maisons in Swiss watchmaking. Deviations from catalogue specifications were granted only rarely and almost exclusively to highly important clients. The overwhelming majority of reference 2499s were produced with silvered dials, reflecting the formal and elegant aesthetic language that defined the brand throughout the period. Black dials were considered sporty, unconventional, and perhaps too assertive for watches that Patek Philippe viewed primarily as refined evening companions. Consequently, black dials on vintage complicated Pateks are almost impossibly rare. Only eight reference 2499s are known to have been fitted with black dials. Against this backdrop, the present watch emerges as one of the most significant vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches ever to appear publicly. The effect of the glossy black dial is immediate and utterly transformative. While silvered dial 2499s embody classical elegance, the black dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The mirror-like surface creates remarkable drama, while the gilt printing and applied gold indices establish perfect visual harmony with the yellow gold case. The result is both refined and unexpectedly modern. Importantly, the dial itself is preserved in astonishing condition. The lacquered surface remains remarkably clean and vibrant, free from the ageing and deterioration often associated with vintage black dials. The gold graphics maintain exceptional clarity, producing a level of contrast that makes the calendar indications appear almost illuminated against the dark surface. Few perpetual calendar chronographs achieve this balance between visual drama and elegance. The glossy surface creates depth and richness, while the applied gold markers and gilt printing establish perfect coherence with the yellow gold case. The result feels simultaneously vintage and contemporary.2499To fully appreciate the significance of this watch, one must first understand the historical importance of the reference itself. Introduced in 1950, the reference 2499 succeeded the legendary reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. The 1518 had already established Patek Philippe as the undisputed master of complicated wristwatches, but the 2499 refined the concept into what many collectors regard as the perfect perpetual calendar chronograph. Production of the reference 2499 lasted approximately thirty-five years, ending in 1985 when it was succeeded by the reference 3970. Throughout its production, the reference remained the flagship complicated wristwatch of Patek Philippe. Across those decades, approximately 350 examples are believed to have been produced in total. Only eight are known to have been fitted with black dials. Third SeriesWith the launch of the 2499, cases were supplied by Vichet and featured elongated lugs and square pushers. Over time, the design gradually evolved toward a more contemporary aesthetic, with subsequent series receiving cases supplied by Wenger. These later cases were approximately 1.5 mm larger and featured round pushers, underscoring both the sportier character of the watch and its increased water resistance. This particular watch belongs to the third series. Distinguished from the second series by its dial production method and layout, it abandoned the raised enamel signature and removed the tachymeter scale. The result was a cleaner, more harmonious design that many collectors consider the purest expression of the reference.Calibre 13''' QThe calibre 13''' Q represents one of the defining perpetual calendar chronograph movements of the twentieth century. Based on a Valjoux ébauche but extensively reworked by Patek Philippe, it combines technical sophistication with traditional hand-finishing of the highest order. The perpetual calendar mechanism integrates seamlessly with the chronograph, creating one of the most celebrated complicated wristwatch movements ever produced. Its enduring reputation rests not merely on its technical capability, but on the elegance with which it delivers it. Like the watch itself, it achieves complexity without ever appearing complicated.A Fascinating Restoration StoryYet the importance of such a watch lies not only in its aesthetics, but also in its provenance. The watch dates back to 1963 and was sold in 1965. When it first appeared publicly at auction nearly three decades later, in 1994, it was fitted with a silvered dial. Shortly thereafter, the watch re-emerged with the present black dial. What might initially appear controversial becomes, upon closer examination, one of the most fascinating and convincing restoration stories in vintage horology. The earliest Extract from the Archives, issued in September 1996, explicitly mentions that the watch was originally fitted with a black dial. A second extract, dated May 1997, describes the black dial in greater detail, specifically mentioning the applied gold indices, and furthermore includes the extraordinary statement: "This watch has been examined at our workshop and we guarantee the validity of the information provided." The chronology therefore appears remarkably clear. After receiving the 1996 extract confirming the watch's original black dial configuration, the new custodian evidently requested that Patek Philippe restore the watch to its original appearance. The manufacture agreed, as proven by the last three digits of the movement number found on the interior of the dial bracing ring; a detail that unequivocally links dial and movement together and confirms that the installation was performed by Patek Philippe itself. They appear to have selected a New Old Stock glossy black dial produced by Stern Frères. Based on the Sigma APRIOR "Swiss" signature and other dial characteristics, production likely dates to the 1980s. Following the restoration, Patek Philippe issued the revised 1997 extract confirming both the configuration and authenticity of the watch after direct examination at the manufacture. In 2022, Phillips had the honour of offering this watch publicly for a second time. They also obtained a new Extract from the Archives confirming the black dial once again.One of EightThe reference 2499 has long represented the pinnacle of vintage watch collecting. It is a watch that bridges eras; conceived during the golden age of traditional Swiss watchmaking, yet possessing proportions, presence, and sophistication that remain utterly contemporary today. Collectors often describe the 2499 as the perfect perpetual calendar chronograph because it achieves what so few complicated watches ever manage: complete technical mastery without sacrificing beauty. Yet within that already legendary lineage, this watch stands apart. Its black dial transforms the character of the reference into something almost impossibly seductive. It combines the aristocratic elegance of a mid-century Patek Philippe complication with the confidence and drama of a sports watch, creating a visual identity unlike any other perpetual calendar chronograph of its era. More importantly, it represents a convergence of rarity, provenance, scholarship, and aesthetic excellence that is close to impossible to encounter. The reappearance of this watch represents a truly momentous event for the world of horology. Opportunities to acquire any reference 2499 are exceptionally rare. Opportunities to acquire one of the six known black dial examples are almost unimaginable.

Among all vintage complicated wristwatches ever created, few references occupy the same exalted position as the Patek Philippe reference 2499. Revered for its elegance, technical sophistication, and extraordinary rarity, the model has long been considered one of the ultimate expressions of twentieth-century watchmaking.
<meta charset="utf-8">Yet even within the already rarefied world of the 2499, there are examples so extraordinary that they transcend collecting altogether. This watch is one of them. Black Dial <meta charset="utf-8">Presented in yellow gold and fitted with a glossy black dial, this example is not merely one of the rarest configurations of one of the most celebrated wristwatches ever made; it is the only publicly known example accompanied by an Extract from the Archives explicitly confirming the black dial.
The manufacture was, and remains, one of the most conservative maisons in Swiss watchmaking. Deviations from catalogue specifications were granted only rarely and almost exclusively to highly important clients. The overwhelming majority of reference 2499s were produced with silvered dials, reflecting the formal and elegant aesthetic language that defined the brand throughout the period. Black dials were considered sporty, unconventional, and perhaps too assertive for watches that Patek Philippe viewed primarily as refined evening companions.
Consequently, black dials on vintage complicated Pateks are almost impossibly rare. Only eight reference 2499s are known to have been fitted with black dials. Against this backdrop, the present watch emerges as one of the most significant vintage Patek Philippe wristwatches ever to appear publicly.
The effect of the glossy black dial is immediate and utterly transformative. While silvered dial 2499s embody classical elegance, the black dial gives the watch an entirely different character. The mirror-like surface creates remarkable drama, while the gilt printing and applied gold indices establish perfect visual harmony with the yellow gold case. The result is both refined and unexpectedly modern.
Importantly, the dial itself is preserved in astonishing condition. The lacquered surface remains remarkably clean and vibrant, free from the ageing and deterioration often associated with vintage black dials. The gold graphics maintain exceptional clarity, producing a level of contrast that makes the calendar indications appear almost illuminated against the dark surface.
Few perpetual calendar chronographs achieve this balance between visual drama and elegance. The glossy surface creates depth and richness, while the applied gold markers and gilt printing establish perfect coherence with the yellow gold case. The result feels simultaneously vintage and contemporary. 2499 <meta charset="utf-8">To fully appreciate the significance of this watch, one must first understand the historical importance of the reference itself.
Introduced in 1950, the reference 2499 succeeded the legendary reference 1518, the world's first serially produced perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch. The 1518 had already established Patek Philippe as the undisputed master of complicated wristwatches, but the 2499 refined the concept into what many collectors regard as the perfect perpetual calendar chronograph.
Production of the reference 2499 lasted approximately thirty-five years, ending in 1985 when it was succeeded by the reference 3970. Throughout its production, the reference remained the flagship complicated wristwatch of Patek Philippe. Across those decades, approximately 350 examples are believed to have been produced in total. <meta charset="utf-8">Only eight are known to have been fitted with black dials.
Third Series <meta charset="utf-8">With the launch of the 2499, cases were supplied by Vichet and featured elongated lugs and square pushers. Over time, the design gradually evolved toward a more contemporary aesthetic, with subsequent series receiving cases supplied by Wenger.
These later cases were approximately 1.5 mm larger and featured round pushers, underscoring both the sportier character of the watch and its increased water resistance.
This particular watch belongs to the third series. Distinguished from the second series by its dial production method and layout, it abandoned the raised enamel signature and removed the tachymeter scale. The result was a cleaner, more harmonious design that many collectors consider the purest expression of the reference. Calibre 13''' Q <meta charset="utf-8">The calibre 13''' Q represents one of the defining perpetual calendar chronograph movements of the twentieth century. 
Based on a Valjoux ébauche but extensively reworked by Patek Philippe, it combines technical sophistication with traditional hand-finishing of the highest order. The perpetual calendar mechanism integrates seamlessly with the chronograph, creating one of the most celebrated complicated wristwatch movements ever produced.
Its enduring reputation rests not merely on its technical capability, but on the elegance with which it delivers it. Like the watch itself, it achieves complexity without ever appearing complicated. A Fascinating Restoration Story Yet the importance of such a watch lies not only in its aesthetics, but also in its provenance.
The watch dates back to 1963 and was sold in 1965. When it first appeared publicly at auction nearly three decades later, in 1994, it was fitted with a silvered dial. Shortly thereafter, the watch re-emerged with the present black dial.
What might initially appear controversial becomes, upon closer examination, one of the most fascinating and convincing restoration stories in vintage horology.
The earliest Extract from the Archives, issued in September 1996, explicitly mentions that the watch was originally fitted with a black dial. A second extract, dated May 1997, describes the black dial in greater detail, specifically mentioning the applied gold indices, and furthermore includes the extraordinary statement:
"This watch has been examined at our workshop and we guarantee the validity of the information provided."
The chronology therefore appears remarkably clear.
After receiving the 1996 extract confirming the watch's original black dial configuration, the new custodian evidently requested that Patek Philippe restore the watch to its original appearance. The manufacture agreed, as proven by the last three digits of the movement number found on the interior of the dial bracing ring; a detail that unequivocally links dial and movement together and confirms that the installation was performed by Patek Philippe itself.
They appear to have selected a New Old Stock glossy black dial produced by Stern Frères. Based on the Sigma APRIOR "Swiss" signature and other dial characteristics, production likely dates to the 1980s.
Following the restoration, Patek Philippe issued the revised 1997 extract confirming both the configuration and authenticity of the watch after direct examination at the manufacture.
In 2022, Phillips had the honour of offering this watch publicly for a second time. They also obtained a new Extract from the Archives confirming the black dial once again. One of Eight <meta charset="utf-8">The reference 2499 has long represented the pinnacle of vintage watch collecting. It is a watch that bridges eras; conceived during the golden age of traditional Swiss watchmaking, yet possessing proportions, presence, and sophistication that remain utterly contemporary today.
Collectors often describe the 2499 as the perfect perpetual calendar chronograph because it achieves what so few complicated watches ever manage: complete technical mastery without sacrificing beauty.
Yet within that already legendary lineage, this watch stands apart.
Its black dial transforms the character of the reference into something almost impossibly seductive. It combines the aristocratic elegance of a mid-century Patek Philippe complication with the confidence and drama of a sports watch, creating a visual identity unlike any other perpetual calendar chronograph of its era.
More importantly, it represents a convergence of rarity, provenance, scholarship, and aesthetic excellence that is close to impossible to encounter.
The reappearance of this watch represents a truly momentous event for the world of horology. Opportunities to acquire any reference 2499 are exceptionally rare. Opportunities to acquire one of the six known black dial examples are almost unimaginable.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 2499 'Black Dial'

Among the most important neo-vintage Patek Philippe watches in existence, this is one of only four known reference 3970EPs fitted with a salmon dial, applied Breguet numerals, and matching Breguet hands. To commemorate the opening of the new Geneva Salon in 2006 and mark the end of production of the reference 3970, Patek Philippe created four special sets of the model. Produced in all four metals and fitted with applied Breguet numerals and matching Breguet hands, these watches were offered to four of the most important Patek Philippe collectors of the era. This is the only official limited-edition 3970 ever produced. It would only be years later, on the occasion of the Patek Philippe exhibition in London at the Saatchi Gallery, that a special-dial 3970, by then an officially discontinued reference, would once again be shown to the public.The DialFew watches achieve the visual harmony of the 3970 dial layout. Surrounded by an open minute track, the dial balances a remarkable amount of information while remaining effortlessly elegant and legible. Above the signature sit the faceted apertures displaying the day and month. The recessed subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock display the chronograph minute counter with leap-year indication, and the running seconds with 24-hour indication respectively. At 6 o’clock, the moonphase and date complete one of the most celebrated dial designs in modern horology. What truly elevates this example into another league entirely, however, is its configuration. Breguet numerals have always been associated with the most desirable and collectible Patek Philippe watches, and for generations they have represented the pinnacle of elegance and rarity. Combine that with a salmon dial, itself one of the most sought-after traits among collectors, and the result is, without question, the most coveted configuration of the four.PlatinumThis example is a reference 3970E, with the "E" standing for Étanche, the French word for waterproof. From the second series onward, Patek Philippe equipped the 3970 with a screw-down caseback, creating one of the very first water-resistant Grand Complications. Like all 3970s, the reference was produced exclusively in precious metals: yellow gold, pink gold, white gold and platinum. Platinum examples are by far the rarest, and this watch is presented in that most coveted metal. Measuring 36 mm, slightly smaller than the reference 2499 but bigger than the 1518, the three-piece case wears with remarkable presence thanks to its elegant proportions, concave bezel, and beautifully stepped lugs. The recessed perpetual calendar correctors remain discreetly integrated into the case flanks, while the stepped lugs remain remarkably sharp and strong. Crisp hallmarks further testify to the exceptional condition of the case. The watch retains both its original solid caseback and sapphire display back. CH 27-70 QThe combination of a chronograph and a perpetual calendar has long been regarded as the pinnacle of traditional watchmaking complications. Introduced in 1986, the reference 3970 did not emerge in isolation; rather, it was the culmination of decades of refinement and technical mastery at Patek Philippe. Over its two decades in production, the 3970 established itself as the backbone of Patek Philippe’s complicated collection. Following in the footsteps of the legendary references 1518 and 2499, it would become one of the defining perpetual calendar chronographs of the modern era.The sapphire display back offers a view of the magnificent CH 27-70 Q movement, a caliber based on a Lemania ébauche but extensively reworked by Patek Philippe. Beyond the addition of the perpetual calendar module, the movement was meticulously finished and decorated to the standards expected of the manufacture. The result is a caliber that is not only technically robust, but visually breathtaking. One need only observe the beautifully executed anglage and Geneva striping to appreciate the level of craftsmanship on display.Provenance & Collectability This very watch was also the first 3970EP of this type ever to appear publicly on the market. In 2013, it achieved CHF 250,000 at Christie’s; a strong result at the time. Today, the market has evolved dramatically, with the most recent public sale exceeding CHF 1.5 million. Such results underline the growing appreciation for the reference 3970 and confirm its rightful place among the great complicated Pateks of this era. Over its two decades in production, the 3970E established itself as the backbone of Patek Philippe’s complicated collection. Production ultimately concluded in the mid 00's with this final execution, and like the references 1518 and 2499 before it, the 3970 has since become part of horological legend. Those references have long represented the epitome of collectability, cemented as some of the most iconic complicated wristwatches ever produced. A compelling argument can now be made that the 3970 is destined for the very same status. At the very top of that hierarchy sit examples such as this: extraordinarily rare, historically important, and immensely desirable. Offered as a complete set with its original box, papers, and accompanying documentation. Fitted with a Patek Philippe crocodile strap and platinum deployant clasp.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 3970EP 'Salmon Dial & Breguet Numerals'

The 2523 is not the first world-time reference by Patek Philippe, but it is widely considered the most accomplished. Its predecessor, ref. 1415, had already been in production since 1939. The 2523 first entered the market in 1953 at a price of 2,385 CHF and remained in production until 1966. In those 12 years, fewer than 50 examples were produced, divided between the 2523 and 2523-1.The DesignThe cases were made by Genevan master Antoin Gerlach, as can be seen by the number 4 within the key inside the snap-on caseback. Above it, the case number can be found: 305699, being the lowest number of this reference and therefore the first produced case. Lastly, we find the alloy and hallmarks; in this instance, 18K. The majority were produced in yellow gold, a few in pink, and just one in white gold.It is a three-piece case, featuring a smooth, sloped bezel and measuring 35.5mm excluding both crowns, which were produced by Boninchi Frères from Geneva. Since this is such an important feature, both functionally and aesthetically, it is reassuring to see the original crowns still in place. The time-setting crown was made slightly larger for ease of use. As mentioned, there is a distinction between the 2523 and the 2523-1. The latter, introduced some years later, features less prominent lugs. The knicked lugs of the earlier execution are among the most charming characteristics, and as such, collectors naturally favour examples like this one. The proportions remain strong, showing excellent volume and elegant bevelled edges, albeit with one lug showing a slight bend. The hallmarks are still clearly visible.The MovementAt its base, the movement began as the calibre 12-400, first introduced in 1950. Cottier then modified it by adding his world-time module. What makes it important is not that it was the first Cottier-based HU movement, but that it represents the decisive evolution. Earlier Patek world timers used the Cottier principle, but the city display was tied to an external bezel arrangement that proved less practical in daily use. The real breakthrough came with the introduction of the second crown at 9 o’clock, which adjusted an inner rotating city ring, making the watch significantly easier for the wearer to reset when changing time zones. This change fundamentally improved usability and marks the defining moment in this calibre’s story. Only around fifty 12-400 HU movements were produced. In other words, the calibre’s mystique stems not only from its ingenuity, but also from its extremely limited production and the continued involvement of Cottier’s workshop. It is closely associated with the ref. 2523, which ceased production in the mid-1960s following Cottier’s passing. Technically, the genius of the 12-400 HU lies in its clarity. You set the local time with the main crown, while the 24-hour ring remains synchronized with the hands. Then, using the crown at 9 o’clock, you align your city at 12 o’clock on the city ring. Once set, the time in every listed city becomes immediately readable against the 24-hour scale. What feels intuitive today was, at the time, a significant ergonomic leap. Naturally, the movement number 720’300 is the lowest recorded for a 12-400 HU, further emphasizing that this is the very first 2523 ever created.The DialThe dial of this 2523 is, in every sense, where the watch transcends from mechanical ingenuity into pure artistry; and that is not a statement made lightly. What you are looking at is not merely a display of information, but a carefully orchestrated composition of three distinct yet perfectly harmonised elements: the solid gold dial centre, the rotating 24-hour day-night disc, and the city ring that frames the world itself. The central portion alone is worthy of prolonged admiration. Crafted from a solid gold plate and entirely executed by hand, it features an unusually expressive guilloché pattern; a flowing, almost organic wave motif that comes alive under changing light. It speaks to the confidence and virtuosity of the artisan behind it. That artisan, of course, being Stern Frères, the undisputed masters of dial making, whose close familial ties to Patek Philippe ensured that such technical and artistic excellence remained exclusive. Then there is the remarkable integrity of the components themselves. Every visible element remains well-maintained: the enamel work, the applied hour markers, and the finely executed “lys”-shaped hands, all preserved with remarkable coherence. Possibly the brandname has been re-applied by transfer technique. The reverse side of the dial reveals its link to the movement by repeating the serial number, a detail mirrored on the 24-hour ring. That particular element deserves special attention. Instead of the more familiar minimal dot indicators seen on later examples, this first execution features beautifully engraved gold sun and moon medallions; large, expressive, and unmistakably tied to Cottier’s earlier work. The fact that he had largely ceased this decorative approach by the late 1940s makes its presence here, in a watch from 1953, nothing short of extraordinary. There is a compelling reason for this. Through research provided by Brandon Thomas, who acquired original workshop notes from Cottier’s atelier over two decades ago, one word emerges that changes everything: “Prototype.”PrototypeThe archival notes suggest that this piece was not only the first of its kind, but potentially a presentation example. It may have originally been delivered with two interchangeable centre dials: one unique guilloché, as seen here, and another likely enamel. An archival photograph showing the same distinctive sun and moon engraving strongly suggests we are looking at the very same watch, albeit with the alternate dial fitted. It reflects a moment in time when Patek Philippe and Cottier were not simply producing watches, but actively exploring the visual identity of the world-time complication. Even the city ring contributes to this narrative. Its silvered surface, engraved and enamelled with 40 locations, reveals another fascinating detail. Archival imagery from 1953, later published in the 1988 Banbery & Huber book, includes Berlin; a city now absent from the present configuration. This suggests a period where such elements were adapted for different markets, much like language variations on the disc itself. Upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that the ring was not physically altered, but rather adjusted photographically in the darkroom; an early form of visual tailoring to suit different audiences. Another archival image, showing the enamel dial version instead features Moscow and Baghdad. It underscores the fluidity of design at this early stage; where nothing was entirely fixed, yet everything was executed to the highest standard imaginable. In short, the dial is not just beautiful; it is deeply narrative. It captures experimentation, mastery, exclusivity, and history within a space no larger than a few centimetres.Final ThoughtsWe feel genuinely privileged to have been entrusted with the search for this watch’s next custodian; a role that carries far more weight than a simple transaction ever could. Spending time with this piece, uncovering its nuances, its intricacies, and its extraordinary place within the history of horology, has been nothing short of captivating. It is one thing to admire a watch for its beauty, but quite another to understand the story it tells; and rarer still to realise you are holding a chapter that may never be written again. This is a watch that rewards curiosity. The deeper one looks, the more it reveals; not only about the ingenuity of its makers, but about a moment in time when boundaries were still being explored, when even the most refined houses were willing to experiment, to push, and to perfect. It has been a true pleasure to bring that story forward and to share it in a way that does justice to its significance. We would also like to extend our sincere thanks to Brandon Thomas for his invaluable contribution, which has added an important layer of depth and context to what is already an exceptional piece. To end with his words: “It should be the most valuable of the yellow gold watches, if not all 2523, as it is the most important and unique.” If that sentiment resonates with you, we would be delighted to continue the conversation.

The 2523 is not the first world-time reference by Patek Philippe, but it is widely considered the most accomplished. 
Its predecessor, ref. 1415, had already been in production since 1939. The 2523 first entered the market in 1953 at a price of 2,385 CHF and remained in production until 1966. In those 12 years, fewer than 50 examples were produced, divided between the 2523 and 2523-1. The Design The cases were made by Genevan master Antoin Gerlach, as can be seen by the number 4 within the key inside the snap-on caseback. Above it, the case number can be found: 305699, being the lowest number of this reference and therefore the first produced case. Lastly, we find the alloy and hallmarks; in this instance, 18K. The majority were produced in yellow gold, a few in pink, and just one in white gold. It is a three-piece case, featuring a smooth, sloped bezel and measuring 35.5mm excluding both crowns, which were produced by Boninchi Frères from Geneva. Since this is such an important feature, both functionally and aesthetically, it is reassuring to see the original crowns still in place. The time-setting crown was made slightly larger for ease of use.
As mentioned, there is a distinction between the 2523 and the 2523-1. The latter, introduced some years later, features less prominent lugs. The knicked lugs of the earlier execution are among the most charming characteristics, and as such, collectors naturally favour examples like this one. The proportions remain strong, showing excellent volume and elegant bevelled edges, albeit with one lug showing a slight bend. The hallmarks are still clearly visible. The Movement At its base, the movement began as the calibre 12-400, first introduced in 1950. Cottier then modified it by adding his world-time module. What makes it important is not that it was the first Cottier-based HU movement, but that it represents the decisive evolution. Earlier Patek world timers used the Cottier principle, but the city display was tied to an external bezel arrangement that proved less practical in daily use.
The real breakthrough came with the introduction of the second crown at 9 o’clock, which adjusted an inner rotating city ring, making the watch significantly easier for the wearer to reset when changing time zones. This change fundamentally improved usability and marks the defining moment in this calibre’s story.
Only around fifty 12-400 HU movements were produced. In other words, the calibre’s mystique stems not only from its ingenuity, but also from its extremely limited production and the continued involvement of Cottier’s workshop. It is closely associated with the ref. 2523, which ceased production in the mid-1960s following Cottier’s passing.
Technically, the genius of the 12-400 HU lies in its clarity. You set the local time with the main crown, while the 24-hour ring remains synchronized with the hands. Then, using the crown at 9 o’clock, you align your city at 12 o’clock on the city ring. Once set, the time in every listed city becomes immediately readable against the 24-hour scale. What feels intuitive today was, at the time, a significant ergonomic leap.
Naturally, the movement number 720’300 is the lowest recorded for a 12-400 HU, further emphasizing that this is the very first 2523 ever created. The Dial The dial of this 2523 is, in every sense, where the watch transcends from mechanical ingenuity into pure artistry; and that is not a statement made lightly. What you are looking at is not merely a display of information, but a carefully orchestrated composition of three distinct yet perfectly harmonised elements: the solid gold dial centre, the rotating 24-hour day-night disc, and the city ring that frames the world itself.
The central portion alone is worthy of prolonged admiration. Crafted from a solid gold plate and entirely executed by hand, it features an unusually expressive guilloché pattern; a flowing, almost organic wave motif that comes alive under changing light. It speaks to the confidence and virtuosity of the artisan behind it. That artisan, of course, being Stern Frères, the undisputed masters of dial making, whose close familial ties to Patek Philippe ensured that such technical and artistic excellence remained exclusive.
Then there is the remarkable integrity of the components themselves. Every visible element remains well-maintained: the enamel work, the applied hour markers, and the finely executed “lys”-shaped hands, all preserved with remarkable coherence. Possibly the brandname has been re-applied by transfer technique. The reverse side of the dial reveals its link to the movement by repeating the serial number, a detail mirrored on the 24-hour ring.
That particular element deserves special attention. Instead of the more familiar minimal dot indicators seen on later examples, this first execution features beautifully engraved gold sun and moon medallions; large, expressive, and unmistakably tied to Cottier’s earlier work. The fact that he had largely ceased this decorative approach by the late 1940s makes its presence here, in a watch from 1953, nothing short of extraordinary. There is a compelling reason for this. Through research provided by Brandon Thomas, who acquired original workshop notes from Cottier’s atelier over two decades ago, one word emerges that changes everything: “Prototype.” Prototype The archival notes suggest that this piece was not only the first of its kind, but potentially a presentation example. It may have originally been delivered with two interchangeable centre dials: one unique guilloché, as seen here, and another likely enamel. An archival photograph showing the same distinctive sun and moon engraving strongly suggests we are looking at the very same watch, albeit with the alternate dial fitted.
It reflects a moment in time when Patek Philippe and Cottier were not simply producing watches, but actively exploring the visual identity of the world-time complication. Even the city ring contributes to this narrative. Its silvered surface, engraved and enamelled with 40 locations, reveals another fascinating detail. Archival imagery from 1953, later published in the 1988 Banbery &amp; Huber book, includes Berlin; a city now absent from the present configuration.
This suggests a period where such elements were adapted for different markets, much like language variations on the disc itself. Upon closer inspection, it becomes clear that the ring was not physically altered, but rather adjusted photographically in the darkroom; an early form of visual tailoring to suit different audiences. Another archival image, showing the enamel dial version instead features Moscow and Baghdad.
It underscores the fluidity of design at this early stage; where nothing was entirely fixed, yet everything was executed to the highest standard imaginable. In short, the dial is not just beautiful; it is deeply narrative. It captures experimentation, mastery, exclusivity, and history within a space no larger than a few centimetres. Final Thoughts We feel genuinely privileged to have been entrusted with the search for this watch’s next custodian; a role that carries far more weight than a simple transaction ever could. Spending time with this piece, uncovering its nuances, its intricacies, and its extraordinary place within the history of horology, has been nothing short of captivating. It is one thing to admire a watch for its beauty, but quite another to understand the story it tells; and rarer still to realise you are holding a chapter that may never be written again.
This is a watch that rewards curiosity. The deeper one looks, the more it reveals; not only about the ingenuity of its makers, but about a moment in time when boundaries were still being explored, when even the most refined houses were willing to experiment, to push, and to perfect. It has been a true pleasure to bring that story forward and to share it in a way that does justice to its significance.
<meta charset="utf-8">We would also like to extend our sincere thanks to Brandon Thomas for his invaluable contribution, which has added an important layer of depth and context to what is already an exceptional piece.
To end with his words: “It should be the most valuable of the yellow gold watches, if not all 2523, as it is the most important and unique.” If that sentiment resonates with you, we would be delighted to continue the conversation.

Patek Philippe World-Time 2523 'Prototype'

When a piece like this lands in your hands, it immediately begins to trigger the imagination. Suddenly, you're in South America in the early 1960s. Caracas is booming from oil wealth. American cars line the boulevards, tropical heat hangs in the air, and the wealthiest families move between private clubs, grand hotels, and elegant dinners dressed in sharply tailored linen suits and gold jewellery. Inside Serpico Y Laino, the finest retailer in the country, standard watches no longer satisfy the clientele. Produced in the early 1960s and retailed by the legendary Venezuelan retailer Serpico Y Laino, this Datejust captures the optimism, extravagance, and elegance of South America during the oil-boom years, when some of the most lavish and unusual Rolex configurations ever made were commissioned by clients who viewed luxury very differently from their European counterparts.Caracas, Gold, Oil and ExcessFounded by Italian jewellers Vicente Laino and Leopoldo Serpico, Serpico Y Laino became the premier retailer of fine European jewellery and watches in Caracas and served as Rolex’s exclusive distributor in the region for many years. Much like Tiffany & Co. in the United States, watches retailed by Serpico Y Laino carried the retailer’s signature on the dial, beneath Rolex at 12 o’clock, instantly elevating their rarity and desirability among collectors. But South American Rolex watches often went beyond a retailer signature alone. Clients requested decorative finishes, heavy gold bracelets, and uncommon configurations rarely seen elsewhere. This watch reflects that spirit perfectly. One can almost picture the original owner. A businessman tied to the oil industry, perhaps moving between Caracas, Miami, and Europe. Stepping out of a Mercedes in the humid Venezuelan evening wearing a sharply tailored suit, this Florentine Datejust catching the warm light of the city. That kind of atmosphere lives inside this watch.FlorentineReference 1602 is distinguished by its factory Florentine finish, a meticulously hand-engraved decorative texture applied across the bezel and lugs. Rolex experimented with these decorative finishes throughout the 1960s and 1970s, but examples preserved at this level have become exceptionally difficult to find today. That is because this type of finish naturally disappears over time. Wear, polishing, and decades of use gradually soften the sharp geometrical engraving until very little remains. Here, however, the Florentine texture remains deep, crisp, and remarkably well preserved. A Piece of Jewellery Fitted to the watch is an exceptionally rare matching 18k yellow gold brick-link bracelet featuring engraved center tiles with a flowing geometrical motif that beautifully echoes the Florentine finish of the case itself. The polished outer links contrast beautifully against the engraved center sections, while the clasp itself features an elegant Clous de Paris finish. We believe this bracelet was likely produced locally in Caracas, something that occurred regularly in South America during that period in order to navigate the significant import taxes on precious metals. Importantly, these bracelets were still made for Rolex watches and accepted within the Rolex retail ecosystem at the time. In markets such as Venezuela, it was not uncommon for local jewellers and retailers to produce specialised gold bracelets or components for important local clients seeking something more elaborate or practical for their local market. It feels less like a standard Rolex bracelet and more like a piece of jewellery integrated perfectly into the watch.ConditionThe watch is preserved in exceptional overall condition, something particularly important for highly decorative gold Rolex references such as this. The 18k yellow gold case retains strong proportions, deep hallmarks, and sharp Florentine engraving throughout, while the original case back hallmarks remain fully intact, an important detail often associated with Serpico Y Laino retailed watches and one that further reinforces the watch’s South American origin. Decades of natural oxidation have given the gold a warm, slightly rosy hue that beautifully enhances its vintage character. The original silver sunburst dial is exceptionally well preserved and retains its Serpico Y Laino signature. Wide markers, original tritium alpha hands, creamy lume plots, and the original metallic open 6’s and 9’s date wheel all remain exactly as collectors hope to see. Vintage Rolex becomes truly fascinating when watches begin reflecting the cultures and places from which they originated. This Datejust does exactly that. The Florentine finish, the Venezuelan retailer signature, the South American hallmarks, the extraordinary bracelet, all of it comes together to create something far more evocative than a standard precious metal Rolex. It feels exotic. Romantic. Atmospheric. And above all, deeply human.

Rolex Datejust 1602 'Florentine & Serpico Y Laino'

At Collectors Gallery, we have always been great admirers of the Patek Philippe 3940. There is something incredibly refreshing about its understated appearance. When people think of complicated Patek Philippe watches, the conversation usually gravitates toward chronographs, often perpetual calendar chronographs. As beautiful as those watches are, they naturally introduce busier dials, additional pushers, and a far more technical presence on the wrist. The 3940 approaches complication differently. No chronograph. No pushers interrupting the case. Just a perfectly clean, elegant profile paired with a calm and beautifully balanced dial.A Modern IconIntroduced in 1985 under the leadership of Philippe Stern, the reference 3940 marked a defining moment for Patek Philippe and for complicated watchmaking as a whole. Mechanical horology had only just begun recovering from the Quartz Crisis, and highly complicated wristwatches were far from commercially obvious. The decision to introduce an ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar at that moment was therefore not only ambitious, but deeply confident. Over time, the 3940 became one of the defining modern Patek Philippe references and a cornerstone of serious collecting.The Art of BalanceThe beauty of the 3940 lies in its balance. The perpetual calendar display is remarkably legible despite the amount of information presented. Day, date, month, leap year, moonphase; everything is arranged with a sense of proportion and calm that very few complicated watches ever achieve. Powered by the celebrated ultra-thin calibre 240 Q, the watch retains an elegant profile on the wrist thanks to its micro-rotor construction. The movement allowed Patek Philippe to create a perpetual calendar that remained refined and wearable rather than oversized or overly technical in appearance. Third SeriesThis particular example is a reference 3940R-011 produced in the year 2000. Executed in rose gold, this metal, to our eyes, suits the 3940 perfectly. Compared to yellow gold, rose gold carries a softer warmth and a touch more character. It feels slightly more vintage, slightly less formal, and gives the watch an almost romantic elegance that works beautifully with the classical perpetual calendar layout. The warm tone of the rose gold case pairs beautifully with the silvered sigma dial, which is further elevated by its beautiful pink gold dauphine hands. As a desirable third-series model, it belongs to the final evolution of the reference. Collectors generally appreciate these later executions for their refined dial details, improved legibility, and overall maturity of production. The classic three-subdial layout has since become one of the most recognisable perpetual calendar designs ever produced.Condition & CompletenessCondition always matters with watches of this calibre, and this example remains in excellent shape. The case retains strong proportions with all hallmarks still clearly visible, something very important and increasingly uncommon on precious metal Patek Philippe watches from this period. The lugs remain full, the bezel sharp, and the overall definition of the case exactly as one would hope to see. The dial is clean and well preserved. The watch is accompanied by its original boxes, booklets, certificate, and the additional solid case back. That final detail is particularly charming. Patek Philippe delivered the 3940 with both a sapphire display back and an extra solid case back, allowing the owner to decide how they wished to wear the watch; either showcasing the movement or preserving a more discreet appearance. At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we continue to believe that watches like the 3940 remain undervalued within the broader landscape of Patek Philippe collecting. Not because they lack importance, quite the opposite, but because they speak quietly. And often, it takes time for the market to fully appreciate watches that do everything right without demanding attention.

At Collectors Gallery, we have always been great admirers of the Patek Philippe 3940. There is something incredibly refreshing about its understated appearance. When people think of complicated Patek Philippe watches, the conversation usually gravitates toward chronographs, often perpetual calendar chronographs. As beautiful as those watches are, they naturally introduce busier dials, additional pushers, and a far more technical presence on the wrist.
The 3940 approaches complication differently. No chronograph. No pushers interrupting the case. Just a perfectly clean, elegant profile paired with a calm and beautifully balanced dial. A Modern Icon <meta charset="utf-8">Introduced in 1985 under the leadership of Philippe Stern, the reference 3940 marked a defining moment for Patek Philippe and for complicated watchmaking as a whole. Mechanical horology had only just begun recovering from the Quartz Crisis, and highly complicated wristwatches were far from commercially obvious. The decision to introduce an ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar at that moment was therefore not only ambitious, but deeply confident.
Over time, the 3940 became one of the defining modern Patek Philippe references and a cornerstone of serious collecting. The Art of Balance <meta charset="utf-8">The beauty of the 3940 lies in its balance.
The perpetual calendar display is remarkably legible despite the amount of information presented. Day, date, month, leap year, moonphase; everything is arranged with a sense of proportion and calm that very few complicated watches ever achieve.
Powered by the celebrated ultra-thin calibre 240 Q, the watch retains an elegant profile on the wrist thanks to its micro-rotor construction. The movement allowed Patek Philippe to create a perpetual calendar that remained refined and wearable rather than oversized or overly technical in appearance.
Third Series This particular example is a reference 3940R-011 produced in the year 2000.
Executed in rose gold, this metal, to our eyes, suits the 3940 perfectly. Compared to yellow gold, rose gold carries a softer warmth and a touch more character. It feels slightly more vintage, slightly less formal, and gives the watch an almost romantic elegance that works beautifully with the classical perpetual calendar layout.
The warm tone of the rose gold case pairs beautifully with the silvered sigma dial, which is further elevated by its beautiful pink gold dauphine hands. <meta charset="utf-8">As a desirable third-series model, it belongs to the final evolution of the reference. Collectors generally appreciate these later executions for their refined dial details, improved legibility, and overall maturity of production. <meta charset="utf-8">The classic three-subdial layout has since become one of the most recognisable perpetual calendar designs ever produced. Condition &amp; Completeness <meta charset="utf-8">Condition always matters with watches of this calibre, and this example remains in excellent shape.
The case retains strong proportions with all hallmarks still clearly visible, something very important and increasingly uncommon on precious metal Patek Philippe watches from this period. The lugs remain full, the bezel sharp, and the overall definition of the case exactly as one would hope to see. The dial is clean and well preserved.
The watch is accompanied by its original boxes, booklets, certificate, and the additional solid case back. That final detail is particularly charming. Patek Philippe delivered the 3940 with both a sapphire display back and an extra solid case back, allowing the owner to decide how they wished to wear the watch; either showcasing the movement or preserving a more discreet appearance.
At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we continue to believe that watches like the 3940 remain undervalued within the broader landscape of Patek Philippe collecting. Not because they lack importance, quite the opposite, but because they speak quietly. And often, it takes time for the market to fully appreciate watches that do everything right without demanding attention.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940R 'Third Series'

There are few moments in collecting that rival the discovery of a true grail that has somehow remained outside the market’s line of sight. These are not found by scrolling, but by hunting. With that mindset, we headed to Time On Show during the Retromobile exposition in Paris. Expectations were high, but realistic. Still, every now and then the stars align. Quite literally, as it turned out.StellineRolex watches fitted with star-shaped hour markers, affectionately referred to by Italian collectors as stelline, occupy a curious niche in the brand’s history. Rolex has always been famously restrained in its design language. Playful or decorative flourishes are the exception rather than the rule, and when they do appear, they are never arbitrary. Star indexes were reserved for watches positioned at the very top of the range. The clearest example is reference 6098, which Rolex went so far as to rename “Galaxy” for the executions featuring these markers. It was, in essence, their most luxurious time-only Oyster Perpetual. The shape is therefore inseparable from the very top tier of their production.Now consider something else that rarely aligns with Rolex: complication. A complicated Rolex is, by definition, an outlier. From its earliest days, the brand’s philosophy centred on durability, reliability, and everyday usability. For more than a century, this meant deliberately avoiding mechanical excess. Not because Rolex lacked the technical ability, but because complexity was seen as a liability rather than a virtue. It is, in a way, their greatest discipline: choosing not to complicate what could be complicated.Combine these two anomalies, star markers and complication, and you arrive at one of the most extraordinary watches Rolex ever produced.CosmographReference 6062, introduced in 1952, was marketed under the name “Cosmograph”. Over a production run of roughly seven years, it is estimated that fewer than 500 examples were made, across steel, pink, and yellow gold. While it shares its triple calendar and moonphase layout with the reference 8171 “Padellone”, the approach is entirely different. The 8171 features a larger case with a snap-on back, whereas the 6062 houses its automatic movement within the iconic Oyster case. A perfectly proportioned 36 mm monobloc, combining robustness with mechanical complexity.The result is a watch that feels almost contradictory. The practicality and durability associated with Rolex, paired with a level of mechanical sophistication and design playfulness that sits outside the brand’s usual vocabulary. Not just rare, but philosophically unusual.Our ExampleWith this in mind, we feel honoured that a gentleman collector entrusted us with the opportunity to acquire this example. Simply holding it for the first time is memorable, let alone wearing it, something made possible by the accompanying bracelet. An uncommon execution from Rolex’s historical catalogue, adding yet another layer to an already complex watch. The Genex-made Oyster construction reveals an intriguing detail inside the caseback. Alongside the reference number, now no longer legible between the lugs due to bracelet friction (though the serial number can still be deciphered), there is an unusual double-signed “Geneva Swiss” stamp. One is rendered in a charming, distinctly 1950s style, while the other appears more straightforward, positioned boldly to the side. At the centre sits the dial. Produced by Stern and designated as type 453, it remains in original condition, showing a beautifully even gradient of ageing. The subtly discoloured grené surface carries depth and character, while remaining highly legible and remarkably attractive. The watch resided for years within the collection of a prominent Italian family and has now found its way to us. Proof, perhaps, that sometimes the most unexpected discoveries begin by simply looking up.

There are few moments in collecting that rival the discovery of a true grail that has somehow remained outside the market’s line of sight. 
These are not found by scrolling, but by hunting. With that mindset, we headed to Time On Show during the Retromobile exposition in Paris. Expectations were high, but realistic. Still, every now and then the stars align. Quite literally, as it turned out. Stelline Rolex watches fitted with star-shaped hour markers, affectionately referred to by Italian collectors as stelline, occupy a curious niche in the brand’s history. Rolex has always been famously restrained in its design language. Playful or decorative flourishes are the exception rather than the rule, and when they do appear, they are never arbitrary. Star indexes were reserved for watches positioned at the very top of the range. The clearest example is reference 6098, which Rolex went so far as to rename “Galaxy” for the executions featuring these markers. It was, in essence, their most luxurious time-only Oyster Perpetual. The shape is therefore inseparable from the very top tier of their production. Now consider something else that rarely aligns with Rolex: complication. A complicated Rolex is, by definition, an outlier. From its earliest days, the brand’s philosophy centred on durability, reliability, and everyday usability. For more than a century, this meant deliberately avoiding mechanical excess. Not because Rolex lacked the technical ability, but because complexity was seen as a liability rather than a virtue. It is, in a way, their greatest discipline: choosing not to complicate what could be complicated. Combine these two anomalies, star markers and complication, and you arrive at one of the most extraordinary watches Rolex ever produced. Cosmograph Reference 6062, introduced in 1952, was marketed under the name “Cosmograph”. Over a production run of roughly seven years, it is estimated that fewer than 500 examples were made, across steel, pink, and yellow gold. While it shares its triple calendar and moonphase layout with the reference 8171 “Padellone”, the approach is entirely different. The 8171 features a larger case with a snap-on back, whereas the 6062 houses its automatic movement within the iconic Oyster case. A perfectly proportioned 36 mm monobloc, combining robustness with mechanical complexity. The result is a watch that feels almost contradictory. The practicality and durability associated with Rolex, paired with a level of mechanical sophistication and design playfulness that sits outside the brand’s usual vocabulary. Not just rare, but philosophically unusual. Our Example With this in mind, we feel honoured that a gentleman collector entrusted us with the opportunity to acquire this example. Simply holding it for the first time is memorable, let alone wearing it, something made possible by the accompanying bracelet. An uncommon execution from Rolex’s historical catalogue, adding yet another layer to an already complex watch.
<meta charset="utf-8">The Genex-made Oyster construction reveals an intriguing detail inside the caseback. Alongside the reference number, now no longer legible between the lugs due to bracelet friction (though the serial number can still be deciphered), there is an unusual double-signed “Geneva Swiss” stamp. One is rendered in a charming, distinctly 1950s style, while the other appears more straightforward, positioned boldly to the side.
At the centre sits the dial. Produced by Stern and designated as type 453, it remains in original condition, showing a beautifully even gradient of ageing. The subtly discoloured grené surface carries depth and character, while remaining highly legible and remarkably attractive.
The watch resided for years within the collection of a prominent Italian family and has now found its way to us.
Proof, perhaps, that sometimes the most unexpected discoveries begin by simply looking up.

Rolex Triple Calendar Moonphase 6062 'Stelline'

The complete reference of this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is 14813BC.ZZ.0789BC.11, an uncommon variation within the 14813 line. Executed in full 18k white gold, with a factory diamond-set bezel and an uncommon black textured dial. For those familiar with the Royal Oak lineage, the 14813 sits in a very specific corner. Introduced in the early 1990s, it was never a mainstream reference. Audemars Piguet confirmed that the 14813 was produced with at least twelve different dial variations, ranging from mother-of-pearl to fully diamond-set examples. The most commonly encountered remains the blue lapis lazuli with diamond markers, already considered highly collectible. Pieces like this, however, fall further outside that spectrum. Precious Metal, Diamonds & Uncommon Dial VariationThe majority of Royal Oaks from this period were produced in steel. White gold examples were made in far smaller numbers and were never intended to be obvious. Visually close to steel, yet significantly more exclusive, white gold changes the entire tone of the watch. It introduces weight and a level of rarity that appeals to a more informed collector. The bezel, set with 40 factory diamonds, follows the original Royal Oak design but translates it into a more refined execution. Within the context of the 14813, this combination of white gold, gem-setting, and a non-standard dial reflects the reference’s role as a platform for variation. The dial, however, defines this watch. Black, with a grainy, almost mineral texture, it departs from the traditional tapisserie pattern. It absorbs light rather than reflecting it, giving it a more subdued and less predictable character. Within a reference already known for dial diversity, this configuration remains one of the less documented. At 36 mm, the midsize case reflects a shift in the Royal Oak’s evolution. What was once considered large in 1972 led to more wearable proportions in the years that followed. Today, this size offers a balance that many collectors actively seek. ConditionThe watch is presented in excellent condition. The case remains sharp, the bracelet retains its structure, and the diamond bezel is clean and well preserved. The dial remains strong, exactly as it should be. According to the Extract from the Archives, the watch was registered on 30 April 1999. The late 1990s were a period of expansion. Markets opened up, travel increased, and technology slowly entered everyday life without yet dominating it. Style became more individual, less uniform, moving away from the obvious. Within that context, a watch like this makes sense. Not the standard choice, but one that reflects a shift toward personal taste over convention.

The complete reference of this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is 14813BC.ZZ.0789BC.11, an uncommon variation within the 14813 line. Executed in full 18k white gold, with a factory diamond-set bezel and an uncommon black textured dial.
For those familiar with the Royal Oak lineage, the 14813 sits in a very specific corner. Introduced in the early 1990s, it was never a mainstream reference. Audemars Piguet confirmed that the 14813 was produced with at least twelve different dial variations, ranging from mother-of-pearl to fully diamond-set examples. The most commonly encountered remains the blue lapis lazuli with diamond markers, already considered highly collectible. Pieces like this, however, fall further outside that spectrum. Precious Metal, Diamonds &amp; Uncommon Dial Variation <meta charset="utf-8">The majority of Royal Oaks from this period were produced in steel. White gold examples were made in far smaller numbers and were never intended to be obvious. Visually close to steel, yet significantly more exclusive, white gold changes the entire tone of the watch. It introduces weight and a level of rarity that appeals to a more informed collector.
The bezel, set with 40 factory diamonds, follows the original Royal Oak design but translates it into a more refined execution. Within the context of the 14813, this combination of white gold, gem-setting, and a non-standard dial reflects the reference’s role as a platform for variation.
The dial, however, defines this watch. Black, with a grainy, almost mineral texture, it departs from the traditional tapisserie pattern. It absorbs light rather than reflecting it, giving it a more subdued and less predictable character. Within a reference already known for dial diversity, this configuration remains one of the less documented.
<meta charset="utf-8"><meta charset="utf-8"><meta charset="utf-8">At 36 mm, the midsize case reflects a shift in the Royal Oak’s evolution. What was once considered large in 1972 led to more wearable proportions in the years that followed. Today, this size offers a balance that many collectors actively seek. <meta charset="utf-8">
Condition <meta charset="utf-8">The watch is presented in excellent condition. The case remains sharp, the bracelet retains its structure, and the diamond bezel is clean and well preserved. The dial remains strong, exactly as it should be. According to the Extract from the Archives, the watch was registered on 30 April 1999. 
The late 1990s were a period of expansion. Markets opened up, travel increased, and technology slowly entered everyday life without yet dominating it. Style became more individual, less uniform, moving away from the obvious. Within that context, a watch like this makes sense. Not the standard choice, but one that reflects a shift toward personal taste over convention.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14813BC 'White Gold & Midsize'

This isn't your everyday-Date. This is reference 18296, produced in 1997 and built for the kind of wrist that doesn’t do half-measures. The 18296 is one of the rarer Day-Date references, produced in limited numbers during the 90s, making it a sought-after piece.Platinum & DiamondsCrafted in solid platinum, the most prestigious and exclusive metal in Rolex’s catalog, this watch already plays in a different league. Platinum has always been used sparingly by Rolex, and typically reserved for their most special configurations. The real showstopper is the factory pavé dial, fully set with extra-large brilliant-cut diamonds. No hour markers. Just an unbroken sea of stones that light up the wrist like a disco ball at high noon. Telling the time? Not really the point. The bezel here is smooth platinum, which is a refined counterpoint to the maximalism of the dial. The lugs, however, are factory-set with diamonds, framing the case with a subtle shimmer. The effect is perfectly balanced.ConditionThis watch has been worn, and it shows here and there. There are honest signs of wear and tear, as you'd expect from a nearly three-decade-old platinum piece. More importantly, the platinum Oyster case has well-preserved edges and no signs of over polishing. Also the bezel remains thick and robust. The diamond-set lugs are intact, and the original President bracelet in platinum shows minimal stretch.Inside ticks the Caliber 3155, the dependable workhorse of '90s Day-Dates, complete with the double quickset function, making both the day and date easily adjustable. Collectors Gallery has always gravitated toward Day-Dates, and even more so when they are executed as special as this one.

Rolex Day-Date 18296 'Platinum & XL Pavé Diamond Dial'

One can almost imagine the type of woman who originally bought a watch like this. Not necessarily someone loud or overtly glamorous, but someone deeply elegant. A woman moving between Paris, Geneva, St. Petersburg, or Monte Carlo during the early 2000s. Silk scarves, tailored evening wear, dinners that stretched late into the night. The kind of person for whom Cartier was not simply a brand, but part of a lifestyle built around culture, travel, jewellery, and design. At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we have always admired this side of Cartier. Because while Cartier is universally celebrated for creating some of the greatest watch designs ever conceived, references like the Tank Allongée St. Petersbourg reveal something deeper: the maison’s confidence to experiment within its own design language while remaining unmistakably Cartier. The Tank, ReimaginedThe Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. Its proportions are timeless, its shape instantly recognisable. The Allongée takes that familiar Cartier DNA and stretches it into something considerably more elegant and unconventional. The elongated case gives the watch a remarkable presence despite its refined dimensions. It wears less like a traditional wristwatch and more like a carefully designed object, almost jewellery in the purest Cartier sense. These elusive boutique-driven Cartier editions were produced in extremely limited numbers, often tied to specific cities like St. Petersbourg, and never widely marketed. The St. Petersbourg editions represent a fascinating moment in Cartier’s history, a period where creativity, exclusivity, and discretion came together naturally. They were about craft, design, and offering something unusual to clients looking beyond the obvious catalogue pieces. As a result, they remain largely unknown outside serious Cartier collecting circles and are encountered only rarely today. JewelleryThis particular example is crafted in 18k yellow gold and elevates the already elegant Allongée design even further through its subtle gemstone configuration. Four sapphires, two diamonds, and two rubies are carefully integrated into the case, introducing colour and depth without ever overpowering the design itself. Cartier always understood elegance better than most jewellery houses, and this watch demonstrates that beautifully. The dial remains equally refined. Delicate guilloché work gives the surface texture and softness, while the absence of the traditional Roman numerals makes the watch feel even cleaner and more elongated visually. The result is striking, yet incredibly balanced. ConditionAccording to the original owner, the watch spent virtually its entire life inside a safe and was never truly worn. That immediately explains the extraordinary state in which the watch presents today. The case remains incredibly crisp, the hallmarks sharp, and the overall appearance almost untouched. Also, the watch remains fully complete with its original box and papers. Ultimately, watches like this remind us that Cartier has never approached watchmaking in the same way as traditional Swiss manufactures. It is jewellery, design, fashion, and horology brought together into a single object. That is precisely why editions like the St. Petersbourg feel so special.

One can almost imagine the type of woman who originally bought a watch like this. Not necessarily someone loud or overtly glamorous, but someone deeply elegant. 
A woman moving between Paris, Geneva, St. Petersburg, or Monte Carlo during the early 2000s. Silk scarves, tailored evening wear, dinners that stretched late into the night. The kind of person for whom Cartier was not simply a brand, but part of a lifestyle built around culture, travel, jewellery, and design.
At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we have always admired this side of Cartier. Because while Cartier is universally celebrated for creating some of the greatest watch designs ever conceived, references like the Tank Allongée St. Petersbourg reveal something deeper: the maison’s confidence to experiment within its own design language while remaining unmistakably Cartier.
The Tank, Reimagined <meta charset="utf-8">The Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs ever created. Its proportions are timeless, its shape instantly recognisable.
The Allongée takes that familiar Cartier DNA and stretches it into something considerably more elegant and unconventional. The elongated case gives the watch a remarkable presence despite its refined dimensions. It wears less like a traditional wristwatch and more like a carefully designed object, almost jewellery in the purest Cartier sense.
These elusive boutique-driven Cartier editions were produced in extremely limited numbers, often tied to specific cities like St. Petersbourg, and never widely marketed. The St. Petersbourg editions represent a fascinating moment in Cartier’s history, a period where creativity, exclusivity, and discretion came together naturally. They were about craft, design, and offering something unusual to clients looking beyond the obvious catalogue pieces. <meta charset="utf-8">As a result, they remain largely unknown outside serious Cartier collecting circles and are encountered only rarely today.
Jewellery <meta charset="utf-8">This particular example is crafted in 18k yellow gold and elevates the already elegant Allongée design even further through its subtle gemstone configuration.
Four sapphires, two diamonds, and two rubies are carefully integrated into the case, introducing colour and depth without ever overpowering the design itself. Cartier always understood elegance better than most jewellery houses, and this watch demonstrates that beautifully.
The dial remains equally refined. Delicate guilloché work gives the surface texture and softness, while the absence of the traditional Roman numerals makes the watch feel even cleaner and more elongated visually. The result is striking, yet incredibly balanced.
Condition <meta charset="utf-8">According to the original owner, the watch spent virtually its entire life inside a safe and was never truly worn. That immediately explains the extraordinary state in which the watch presents today. The case remains incredibly crisp, the hallmarks sharp, and the overall appearance almost untouched. Also, the watch remains fully complete with its original box and papers. 
Ultimately, watches like this remind us that Cartier has never approached watchmaking in the same way as traditional Swiss manufactures. It is jewellery, design, fashion, and horology brought together into a single object. That is precisely why editions like the St. Petersbourg feel so special.

Cartier Tank Allongée St. Petersbourg Limited Edition

No fluted bezel. No President bracelet. Instead, this reference 18208 takes a very different approach. Fitted with a smooth domed bezel, Oyster bracelet, and champagne tapestry dial, it belongs to a surprisingly uncommon corner of the Day-Date world, one that feels considerably more nuanced than the classic configuration most people immediately picture. At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we have always appreciated Day-Dates that step slightly outside the expected formula. Watches like this reveal just how versatile the Day-Date platform actually is. Unusual ConfigurationThe smooth bezel softens the watch dramatically. Without the sharp reflections of fluting, the case feels cleaner and calmer. Combined with the Oyster bracelet, the entire personality shifts. The watch becomes sportier, more understated, almost more metropolitan in character. The dial is where the watch quietly becomes special. Rolex tapestry dials have always occupied a special place within vintage and neo-vintage collecting. Produced with vertically engraved texturing, the lines constantly interact with light, shifting between soft champagne tones and sharper metallic reflections depending on the angle of the wrist. One can imagine the type of person who originally ordered this in the 1990s. Someone successful, certainly, but perhaps less interested in the overt visual language traditionally associated with the model. A businessman moving between airports, meetings, and late dinners, wearing tailored suits with softer shoulders as fashion shifted away from the excess of the 1980s. The kind of person who still appreciated gold and quality, but preferred discretion over display. ConditionThe case remains sharp and full, with strong proportions throughout and beautifully preserved surfaces. The smooth bezel retains crisp definition, while the Oyster bracelet remains tight and substantial on the wrist. The champagne tapestry dial is equally well preserved. Overall, the watch presents exactly as collectors hope to find these. The Day-Date has always been one of Rolex’s most versatile models. Over the decades, the brand experimented with bracelets, bezels, dials, and metals in ways that produced some surprisingly nuanced executions. This 18208 is one of them.

Rolex Day-Date 18208 'Tapestry'

There are certain references within the Nautilus lineage that quietly sit between generations, never produced in large numbers, never fully appreciated during their production years, yet increasingly understood by collectors over time. The reference 5800 is exactly one of those watches. Overshadowed for years by both the earlier mid-size references and the 5711 that followed shortly after, the 5800 occupied a very specific and rather brief moment in Nautilus history. Today, that exact transitional character is precisely what makes it so interesting.Between Two ErasIntroduced in the mid-2000s, the Nautilus 5800/1 can best be understood as the final evolution of the classic mid-size Nautilus before the arrival of the modern 5711 generation. Produced for only a relatively short period, the reference combines elements from both eras. It retains the more compact and elegant proportions associated with the reference 3800, while simultaneously introducing a more contemporary presence on the wrist. At 38.4 mm, the watch occupies a particularly attractive middle ground. Larger and sportier than the traditional mid-size executions, yet still noticeably more elegant than the later 5711. That balance gives the 5800 a very distinct personality.CollectabilityCollectors have increasingly begun gravitating toward transitional references across many important watch families, and the 5800 fits naturally within that category. It represents a period where Patek Philippe was carefully evolving the Nautilus without fundamentally changing its identity. And because the reference remained in production for such a short period, examples have become increasingly difficult to source, particularly in strong condition. ConditionProduced in 2006, this Patek Philippe Nautilus 5800/1 is presented in outstanding overall condition. The watch remains exceptionally sharp and clean throughout, preserving the strong case proportions, crisp bezel definition, and beautifully integrated bracelet structure exactly as collectors hope to see. The overall impression is remarkably fresh, with the watch presenting almost like new. The dial remains equally strong. Importantly, the watch is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives as well as recent Patek Philippe service papers. The Nautilus market has matured significantly over the past decade. As that happens, collectors naturally begin looking beyond the obvious references and toward watches with stronger nuance, shorter production periods, and more distinct positioning within the lineage. The 5800 belongs firmly within that conversation.

There are certain references within the Nautilus lineage that quietly sit between generations, never produced in large numbers, never fully appreciated during their production years, yet increasingly understood by collectors over time. 
The reference 5800 is exactly one of those watches. Overshadowed for years by both the earlier mid-size references and the 5711 that followed shortly after, the 5800 occupied a very specific and rather brief moment in Nautilus history. Today, that exact transitional character is precisely what makes it so interesting. Between Two Eras Introduced in the mid-2000s, the Nautilus 5800/1 can best be understood as the final evolution of the classic mid-size Nautilus before the arrival of the modern 5711 generation.
Produced for only a relatively short period, the reference combines elements from both eras. It retains the more compact and elegant proportions associated with the reference 3800, while simultaneously introducing a more contemporary presence on the wrist. 
At 38.4 mm, the watch occupies a particularly attractive middle ground. Larger and sportier than the traditional mid-size executions, yet still noticeably more elegant than the later 5711. That balance gives the 5800 a very distinct personality. Collectability <meta charset="utf-8">Collectors have increasingly begun gravitating toward transitional references across many important watch families, and the 5800 fits naturally within that category. It represents a period where Patek Philippe was carefully evolving the Nautilus without fundamentally changing its identity. And because the reference remained in production for such a short period, examples have become increasingly difficult to source, particularly in strong condition.
Condition <meta charset="utf-8">Produced in 2006, this Patek Philippe Nautilus 5800/1 is presented in outstanding overall condition.
The watch remains exceptionally sharp and clean throughout, preserving the strong case proportions, crisp bezel definition, and beautifully integrated bracelet structure exactly as collectors hope to see. The overall impression is remarkably fresh, with the watch presenting almost like new. The dial remains equally strong.
Importantly, the watch is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives as well as recent Patek Philippe service papers.
<meta charset="utf-8">The Nautilus market has matured significantly over the past decade. As that happens, collectors naturally begin looking beyond the obvious references and toward watches with stronger nuance, shorter production periods, and more distinct positioning within the lineage. <meta charset="utf-8">The 5800 belongs firmly within that conversation.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 5800/1

This Patek Philippe 3974P perfectly reflects the bond between Collectors Gallery Dubai and Amsterdam Vintage Watches. Amsterdam Vintage Watches sourced this extraordinary piece through their network, and Collectors Gallery Dubai ultimately placed it with the right collector. A perfect example of how collaboration, combined reach, and genuine teamwork can bring rare things to the right hands. A Watch That SpeaksFew watches manage to feel this understated while being this mechanically serious. The reference 3974 is one of Patek Philippe’s most celebrated achievements, combining two heavyweight complications: the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar. The minute repeater is activated through the slide on the case. The watch quite literally speaks, chiming the time on demand through a sequence of tones: hours, quarters, and minutes. It’s one of the most difficult mechanisms to execute correctly, not only because of the sheer number of components involved, but because it demands perfection in tuning, timing, and harmony. The sound must be clear, warm, and resonant. In a watch this slim and discreet, achieving that level of acoustic quality is a true testament to Patek Philippe’s mastery. The micro-rotor movement is finished to the highest traditional standard, with a beautifully integrated Calatrava cross within the architecture. The repeater delivers a rich, resonant sound, while the perpetual calendar keeps track of leap years and changing month lengths with effortless precision. The Details That Make ItAll of this comes in a case that remains remarkably refined on the wrist. At 36mm, it carries classic proportions: slim, sharp, and beautifully restrained. The case features stepped lugs and was made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, arguably the most respected name in case-making, adding yet another layer of significance for collectors. The 3974 was offered with two opaline dial styles: one with Breguet numerals, and one with baton markers. This example features the baton configuration: clean and minimal. The dial is exceptionally well preserved, and there is a gentle discoloration on the lower half of the left 24-hour subdial. It’s a subtle, warm, and honest kind of ageing that adds real personality. Documentation That MattersPlatinum examples are in a league of their own. The reference was never produced in large numbers, but in platinum it becomes something truly elusive. Based on what has surfaced publicly, only eight other platinum pieces are known, making this the ninth recorded example to date. Moreover, this piece sits firmly within the earliest generation of the reference. The original papers carry the PHSE code, corresponding to May 1993. Even more remarkable: it features the lowest movement number recorded so far for any 3974P. That places it at the very beginning of platinum production and makes a strong case for it being among the very first examples ever completed. From Amsterdam to Dubai, and finally to its next chapter. Exactly where it belongs.

This Patek Philippe 3974P perfectly reflects the bond between Collectors Gallery Dubai and Amsterdam Vintage Watches.
Amsterdam Vintage Watches sourced this extraordinary piece through their network, and Collectors Gallery Dubai ultimately placed it with the right collector. A perfect example of how collaboration, combined reach, and genuine teamwork can bring rare things to the right hands.
A Watch That Speaks Few watches manage to feel this understated while being this mechanically serious. The reference 3974 is one of Patek Philippe’s most celebrated achievements, combining two heavyweight complications: the minute repeater and the perpetual calendar.
The minute repeater is activated through the slide on the case. The watch quite literally speaks, chiming the time on demand through a sequence of tones: hours, quarters, and minutes. It’s one of the most difficult mechanisms to execute correctly, not only because of the sheer number of components involved, but because it demands perfection in tuning, timing, and harmony. The sound must be clear, warm, and resonant. In a watch this slim and discreet, achieving that level of acoustic quality is a true testament to Patek Philippe’s mastery.
The micro-rotor movement is finished to the highest traditional standard, with a beautifully integrated Calatrava cross within the architecture. The repeater delivers a rich, resonant sound, while the perpetual calendar keeps track of leap years and changing month lengths with effortless precision.
The Details That Make It All of this comes in a case that remains remarkably refined on the wrist. At 36mm, it carries classic proportions: slim, sharp, and beautifully restrained. The case features stepped lugs and was made by Jean-Pierre Hagmann, arguably the most respected name in case-making, adding yet another layer of significance for collectors.
The 3974 was offered with two opaline dial styles: one with Breguet numerals, and one with baton markers. This example features the baton configuration: clean and minimal. The dial is exceptionally well preserved, and there is a gentle discoloration on the lower half of the left 24-hour subdial. It’s a subtle, warm, and honest kind of ageing that adds real personality.
Documentation That Matters Platinum examples are in a league of their own. The reference was never produced in large numbers, but in platinum it becomes something truly elusive. Based on what has surfaced publicly, only eight other platinum pieces are known, making this the ninth recorded example to date.
Moreover, this piece sits firmly within the earliest generation of the reference. The original papers carry the PHSE code, corresponding to May 1993. Even more remarkable: it features the lowest movement number recorded so far for any 3974P. That places it at the very beginning of platinum production and makes a strong case for it being among the very first examples ever completed.
From Amsterdam to Dubai, and finally to its next chapter. Exactly where it belongs.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications 3974P

At Collectors Gallery, we appreciate the Day-Date in all its forms. It is one of the few watches that always feels complete. That said, certain configurations sit further away from the standard offering and hold a special place with us.This is a Rolex Day-Date reference 18388, produced in 1990. A factory gem-set configuration featuring diamond-set lugs, an alternating diamond and ruby bezel, and a President bracelet with diamond-set center links. Within the Day-Date range, it sits at the more elaborate end of production.The CrownWatches like this are often grouped under what collectors refer to as the Rolex Crown Collection.During the late 1980s and early 1990s, Rolex produced a series of highly decorated Day-Dates, combining precious metals with complex gem-setting. These were not standard catalogue pieces in the traditional sense, but part of a broader offering aimed at a specific clientele.The Crown Collection represents a period where Rolex explored variation within the Day-Date, using diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies in different combinations. This reference 18388 sits comfortably within that space.The “3” in 18388 indicates factory-set diamond lugs, while the “8” refers to a factory-set diamond bezel. The addition of rubies within that bezel does not alter the reference, but reflects the variation Rolex applied within these gem-set pieces.The dial is not a standard pavé execution, but rather features diamonds set within a structured, almost geometric pattern, creating depth and rhythm across the surface. Each stone sits within its own defined space, giving the dial a more architectural appearance. Rubies are introduced as round hour markers, with baguette-cut rubies at 6 and 9, adding structure to the composition. Diamonds reflect light sharply and evenly, while rubies carry depth, shifting between red and darker tones depending on the light.ConditionThe watch is presented in razor-sharp condition. The case remains well defined, with strong lines and crisp diamond-set lugs. The bracelet retains its tightness, and the diamond-set center links are intact and well preserved. The bezel shows clean, well-set stones throughout. The dial is equally strong. Overall, the watch shows no signs of heavy wear.Gem-set pieces like this were not made for a broad audience. Not necessarily centred around traditional Western markets, but often in regions where gemstones carried cultural meaning. Rubies, in particular, have long been associated with prosperity and protection in parts of Asia and the Middle East. A watch like this fits naturally within that context.

Rolex Day-Date 18388 'Rubies & Diamonds'

There is something about the midsize Nautilus that continues to resonate. At 37.5 mm, the reference 3800 sits in that rare space where everything just works. The case, the bracelet, the dial. It is one of the most complete designs Patek Philippe ever put into production. This particular 3800/003, executed in yellow gold with a factory diamond-set bezel and deep blue dial, belongs to a different chapter of that story. It reflects a time when the Nautilus began to move beyond its original identity, evolving into something more expressive without losing the integrity of the design.Moving WaterThe dial is what immediately draws your attention. Blue, yet constantly shifting from deep navy to lighter tones depending on the light, almost like looking into moving water. The embossed tapisserie pattern adds texture and rhythm, creating a surface that feels alive rather than flat. Combined with the diamond hour markers, this Sigma dial takes on a distinctly 1980s character. The period-correct black date wheel completes the composition, a small detail that collectors immediately recognise.1984, BaselThis watch was sold on October 4th, 1984, in Basel. The mid-1980s were not about holding back. Business was expanding, markets were active, and wealth was worn openly. In cities like Basel, Milan, and Zurich, style carried a certain confidence. You can imagine the original owner. Perhaps a banker, perhaps a businessman moving between Switzerland and Italy. Tailored suits with relaxed collars, and a gold watch as part of his everyday life. ConditionThe watch is presented in very good condition. It shows light signs of wear, all superficial. Nothing that a light polish could not address, if desired. More importantly, the proportions remain exactly as they should. The case is full, the bezel remains sharp, and the bracelet is exceptionally tight and nearly fully linked. The dial is clean, with matching hands and lume, exactly as you would expect. If there is one point to note, it is a small scratch on the sapphire crystal, visible only under certain lighting conditions. Minor, easily resolved, but worth mentioning. The watch comes complete with its original box and certificate. At Collectors Gallery, we have always been drawn to the Nautilus. The 3800, in particular, holds a special place for us. The proportions, the design, the balance. And especially when executed with this level of detail, it becomes something we genuinely enjoy.

There is something about the midsize Nautilus that continues to resonate. At 37.5 mm, the reference 3800 sits in that rare space <meta charset="utf-8">where everything just works. The case, the bracelet, the dial. It is one of the most complete designs Patek Philippe ever put into production.
<meta charset="utf-8">This particular 3800/003, executed in yellow gold with a factory diamond-set bezel and deep blue dial, belongs to a different chapter of that story. It reflects a time when the Nautilus began to move beyond its original identity, evolving into something more expressive without losing the integrity of the design. Moving Water <meta charset="utf-8">The dial is what immediately draws your attention. Blue, yet constantly shifting from deep navy to lighter tones depending on the light, almost like looking into moving water. The embossed tapisserie pattern adds texture and rhythm, creating a surface that feels alive rather than flat.
Combined with the diamond hour markers, this Sigma dial takes on a distinctly 1980s character. The period-correct black date wheel completes the composition, a small detail that collectors immediately recognise. 1984, Basel <meta charset="utf-8">This watch was sold on October 4th, 1984, in Basel. The mid-1980s were not about holding back. Business was expanding, markets were active, and wealth was worn openly. In cities like Basel, Milan, and Zurich, style carried a certain confidence.
You can imagine the original owner. Perhaps a banker, perhaps a businessman moving between Switzerland and Italy. Tailored suits with relaxed collars, and a gold watch as part of his everyday life.
Condition <meta charset="utf-8">The watch is presented in very good condition. It shows light signs of wear, all superficial. Nothing that a light polish could not address, if desired. More importantly, the proportions remain exactly as they should. The case is full, the bezel remains sharp, and the bracelet is exceptionally tight and nearly fully linked. The dial is clean, with matching hands and lume, exactly as you would expect.
If there is one point to note, it is a small scratch on the sapphire crystal, visible only under certain lighting conditions. Minor, easily resolved, but worth mentioning.
The watch comes complete with its original box and certificate.
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At Collectors Gallery, we have always been drawn to the Nautilus. The 3800, in particular, holds a special place for us. The proportions, the design, the balance. And especially when executed with this level of detail, it becomes something we genuinely enjoy.
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Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/003 'Diamond Bezel & Index'

At first glance, you could mistake it for steel. Same proportions. Same brushed surfaces. Same Royal Oak silhouette. But this is not steel. This is a white gold Royal Oak reference 14790. Introduced in 1992, the 14790 measures 36 mm, offering a more wearable alternative to the full-size Jumbo. The sharp bezel, integrated bracelet and angular case architecture give the watch a presence that feels far larger than the dimensions suggest. White gold is a curious choice. It looks almost identical to steel, yet carries a significant premium and was produced in far smaller numbers. That alone makes a 14790BC special.The Salmon DialThen there is the dial. Salmon has always held a certain status in collecting circles. Deeply appreciated by collectors. It carries warmth without flash. In the early Royal Oak context, it was never part of the standard offering. As confirmed by the papers, this watch was originally delivered as an /03. The salmon dial was not a standard configuration, but was later fitted by Audemars Piguet at the request of a select client. The petite tapisserie pattern softens under the salmon tone, giving the dial depth and texture. Depending on the light, it shifts from copper to rose to a muted pink hue. ConditionThe case remains sharp, with strong bevels and a well-defined bracelet that retains its structure. It feels solid, as a white gold Royal Oak should. The watch comes with its box and papers.The dial retains its warmth and character, with only a minor blemish just above the word “Automatic,” mentioned for the sake of transparency. There may be plenty of fish in the sea. Not many like this Salmon Royal Oak.

At first glance, you could mistake it for steel. Same proportions. Same brushed surfaces. Same Royal Oak silhouette. But this is not steel. This is a white gold Royal Oak reference 14790.
<meta charset="utf-8">Introduced in 1992, the 14790 measures 36 mm, offering a more wearable alternative to the full-size Jumbo. The sharp bezel, integrated bracelet and angular case architecture give the watch a presence that feels far larger than the dimensions suggest. <meta charset="utf-8">White gold is a curious choice. It looks almost identical to steel, yet carries a significant premium and was produced in far smaller numbers. <meta charset="utf-8">That alone makes a 14790BC special. The Salmon Dial <meta charset="utf-8">Then there is the dial. Salmon has always held a certain status in collecting circles. Deeply appreciated by collectors. It carries warmth without flash. In the early Royal Oak context, it was never part of the standard offering. <meta charset="utf-8">As confirmed by the papers, this watch was originally delivered as an /03. The salmon dial was not a standard configuration, but was later fitted by Audemars Piguet at the request of a select client. The petite tapisserie pattern softens under the salmon tone, giving the dial depth and texture. Depending on the light, it shifts from copper to rose to a muted pink hue. Condition <meta charset="utf-8">The case remains sharp, with strong bevels and a well-defined bracelet that retains its structure. It feels solid, as a white gold Royal Oak should. The watch comes with its box and papers. The dial retains its warmth and character, with only a minor blemish just above the word “Automatic,” mentioned for the sake of transparency. 
<meta charset="utf-8">There may be plenty of fish in the sea. Not many like this Salmon Royal Oak.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790BC 'Salmon'

At first glance, it looks familiar. A classic 36 mm Datejust. Fluted bezel. Jubilee bracelet. And then that dial. Fully black Onyx, completely free of markers. But it is the combination that makes it special. This is not steel. This is a white gold Datejust reference 1601/9 fitted with an Onyx dial.Unusual combination In the 36 mm category, precious metal traditionally meant one thing: the Day-Date. The Datejust, by contrast, was positioned as the accessible everyday Rolex. An entry-level luxury watch for the successful professional. Most examples were delivered in steel, some in yellow gold. That is precisely what makes this configuration so unusual. White gold Datejusts were produced in very small numbers. Visually, white gold resembles steel, understated and almost anonymous, yet it carried a significantly higher price tag. Choosing a precious metal that looked nearly identical to the entry-level version, and pairing it with an Onyx dial, creates a highly unlikely combination. OnyxRolex Onyx dials are a chapter of their own. Cut from natural stone, jet black, completely free of hour markers. Just depth. At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we have handled many Onyx dials over the years, mostly in yellow gold Day-Dates and Datejusts. In white gold, however, the effect shifts. The white coronet, white date aperture frame, and white printing against the black stone create a sharper, cooler aesthetic. Very few examples were ever fitted with an Onyx dial. We are likely speaking of a handful worldwide. That rarity explains why these command multiples of their yellow gold counterparts. Not because they are louder, but because they are harder to find.ConditionThe dial remains original and correct to the watch. There are small imperfections in the text and light signs caused by previous storage when the dial was temporarily removed by a former owner. Under normal viewing conditions, beneath the plexiglass and without magnification, these are not visible to the naked eye. They are mentioned because we value transparency. The case is strong, with thick lugs and clearly visible hallmarks on the underside, confirming the white gold construction. The Jubilee bracelet with fold-over clasp remains in very good condition, and the original closed handset and white gold Twinlock crown are still present.Imagine the year 1977. Tailoring was sharp, cars were large, and gold was everywhere. The expected choice would have been yellow gold. Instead, someone chose to pay a serious premium for a white gold Datejust that looked almost anonymous. Choosing Onyx removed even the comfort of hour markers. Exactly that improbability is the point.

At first glance, it looks familiar. A classic 36 mm Datejust. Fluted bezel. Jubilee bracelet. And then that dial. Fully black Onyx, completely free of markers.
But it is the combination that makes it special. This is not steel. This is a white gold Datejust reference 1601/9 fitted with an Onyx dial. Unusual combination  In the 36 mm category, precious metal traditionally meant one thing: the Day-Date. The Datejust, by contrast, was positioned as the accessible everyday Rolex. An entry-level luxury watch for the successful professional. Most examples were delivered in steel, some in yellow gold.
That is precisely what makes this configuration so unusual. White gold Datejusts were produced in very small numbers. Visually, white gold resembles steel, understated and almost anonymous, yet it carried a significantly higher price tag. Choosing a precious metal that looked nearly identical to the entry-level version, and pairing it with an Onyx dial, creates a highly unlikely combination. 
Onyx <meta charset="utf-8">Rolex Onyx dials are a chapter of their own. Cut from natural stone, jet black, completely free of hour markers. Just depth.
At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we have handled many Onyx dials over the years, mostly in yellow gold Day-Dates and Datejusts. In white gold, however, the effect shifts. The white coronet, white date aperture frame, and white printing against the black stone create a sharper, cooler aesthetic.
Very few examples were ever fitted with an Onyx dial. We are likely speaking of a handful worldwide. That rarity explains why these command multiples of their yellow gold counterparts. Not because they are louder, but because they are harder to find. Condition <meta charset="utf-8">The dial remains original and correct to the watch. There are small imperfections in the text and light signs caused by previous storage when the dial was temporarily removed by a former owner. Under normal viewing conditions, beneath the plexiglass and without magnification, these are not visible to the naked eye. They are mentioned because we value transparency.
The case is strong, with thick lugs and clearly visible hallmarks on the underside, confirming the white gold construction. The Jubilee bracelet with fold-over clasp remains in very good condition, and the original closed handset and white gold Twinlock crown are still present. <meta charset="utf-8">Imagine the year 1977. Tailoring was sharp, cars were large, and gold was everywhere. The expected choice would have been yellow gold. Instead, someone chose to pay a serious premium for a white gold Datejust that looked almost anonymous. Choosing Onyx removed even the comfort of hour markers. Exactly that improbability is the point.

Rolex Datejust 1601/9 'Onyx'

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066 Japan EditionProduced in 1999, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066 represents one of the most distinctive early expressions of the model. Crafted in stainless steel and fitted with a deep blue embossed dial and matching blue tropical strap, this configuration was created exclusively for the Japanese market. The reference 5066 carries a prototype-like character. At 36mm, it reflects a period when Patek Philippe was still defining what the Aquanaut could be. Sporty, unconventional, and quietly experimental. The grid-pattern dial, rounded Arabic numerals, and rubber strap felt radical at the time, especially coming from a house known for restraint and tradition. Japan-only Aquanaut editions from this era were produced in very limited numbers and rarely surface outside the region. This example is presented in top condition and is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives, confirming its production and originality.AvailabilityThis watch has not yet received its complete listing, and many pieces find their next owner at this stage, before a final page is ever completed. Collectors are welcome to reach out for further details, early photography, or to discuss availability ahead of the full listing.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066 Japan Edition Produced in 1999, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066 represents one of the most distinctive early expressions of the model. Crafted in stainless steel and fitted with a deep blue embossed dial and matching blue tropical strap, this configuration was created exclusively for the Japanese market.
The reference 5066 carries a prototype-like character. At 36mm, it reflects a period when Patek Philippe was still defining what the Aquanaut could be. Sporty, unconventional, and quietly experimental. The grid-pattern dial, rounded Arabic numerals, and rubber strap felt radical at the time, especially coming from a house known for restraint and tradition.
Japan-only Aquanaut editions from this era were produced in very limited numbers and rarely surface outside the region. This example is presented in top condition and is accompanied by an Extract from the Archives, confirming its production and originality. <meta charset="utf-8">Availability <meta charset="utf-8"><meta charset="utf-8">This watch has not yet received its complete listing, and many pieces find their next owner at this stage, before a final page is ever completed. Collectors are welcome to reach out for further details, early photography, or to discuss availability ahead of the full listing.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5066 'Japan Edition'

Some watches are the product of logic. Others follow clear rules. This Day-Date does exactly the opposite. Produced in 1995, this watch belongs to a time when the world was quietly reshaping itself. The Cold War was over, markets were expanding, and optimism had returned. Technology was becoming personal: mobile phones were finding their way into briefcases, the internet was beginning to connect offices and homes, and email was slowly replacing the fax machine. Fashion reflected the shift. Designers like Armani and Helmut Lang defined a cleaner, softer silhouette. Less about uniform signals, more about individual choice. Music moved between Notorious B.I.G., Massive Attack, and Nirvana. A white gold Day-Date made sense in that moment. Recognisable to those who knew, invisible to those who didn’t. The Lapis Lazuli dial provides the counterpoint. Exactly the kind of contrast that defined the mid-1990s. An Unlikely CombinationAt first glance, the configuration almost feels contradictory. The Day-Date, long associated with visibility and power, executed in white gold, a metal chosen specifically for its discretion. And then the dial. Lapis Lazuli. Deep blue, natural stone, unmistakable and vibrant. The result is a watch that operates on two levels at once: understated in material, expressive in detail. Rolex stone dials were never produced in significant numbers, and white gold examples are among the rarest of all. In this particular configuration, fewer than ten examples are believed to exist worldwide. The unusual nature of the pairing is precisely why so few were made, and why even fewer have survived in untouched condition.The watch comes full set, including box and papers, though the significance of this example lies first and foremost in its condition and rarity rather than its accessories.Lapis LazuliLapis Lazuli has been valued for thousands of years, long before it ever appeared on a wristwatch. Used in ancient jewelry, Renaissance paintings, and architectural details, it has always carried a sense of depth and permanence. Cut from natural stone, no two dials are ever the same. The rich ultramarine blue of this example is punctuated by fine golden pyrite inclusions, giving the dial a natural texture that changes subtly with light and movement.A Personal DecisionOne can imagine the original owner quite clearly. Not someone chasing attention, but someone already past that phase. Perhaps a person who spent the early 1990s building something, selling something, or moving between cities as markets opened and opportunities shifted. A yellow gold Day-Date might have felt too expected. Choosing Lapis Lazuli was likely the indulgence. A reminder that discretion did not have to mean restraint. Within the Day-Date lineage, this reference occupies an extremely narrow space. Produced briefly, ordered by very few, and preserved by even fewer, it represents a level of collectability driven not by hype, but by improbability.

Rolex Day-Date 18239 'Lapis Lazuli'

The 1980s were years of movement and ambition. Cities grew taller, business became more international, and life accelerated. People dressed in tailored jackets with wide shoulders, silk blouses, crisp shirts worn open at the collar. Gold jewelry was not hidden. It was worn with ease. Music moved between jazz, soul, early electronic sounds, and pop, filling hotel lobbies and long drives at night. Cars were angular and powerful. Mercedes, Porsche, Ferrari. The world felt optimistic, fast, and unapologetically expressive. This Nautilus fits perfectly into that picture.The Nautilus Finds Its PlaceThe reference 3800 was already a bold choice in those years. Gérald Genta’s design had challenged the idea of what a luxury watch could be, and by the mid to late 1980s it had found its audience. This particular example, executed in 18k yellow gold with a factory-set diamond bezel and bracelet, goes a step further. The dial, accented with sapphire hour markers at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock, adds a quiet play of color and light. In total, the watch is set with 474 diamonds, 2.22 carats in all, executed to the level of craftsmanship long associated with Patek Philippe.The Passage of TimeProduced in 1984 and sold on July 25, 1988, according to the Extract from the Archives, the watch remains in very good condition today, showing only light signs of careful wear. The bracelet is missing a few links, resulting in a smaller fit, something to note for prospective buyers. The watch runs well, powered by the self-winding caliber 335 SC, though it has not been serviced recently.Who Was This Made ForThese traces of time do not detract. They add texture. They remind us that this Nautilus was once part of someone’s daily rhythm. Perhaps a man or a woman equally comfortable in a boardroom and at a late dinner. Someone who valued quality but enjoyed beauty. Worn with a linen suit, a silk dress, or simply with a sense of ease that never needed explanation. During conversations, decisions, travel, and moments that mattered only to the person who experienced them.Today, decades later, the world looks different. Tastes have shifted, trends come and go faster than ever. Yet watches like this remain.

Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/105 'Sapphire & Diamonds'

A study in subtlety: the Cacholong dial. Not every Day-Date seeks attention. Some radiate a quiet refinement understood only by few. This 1987 Rolex Day-Date reference 18038 is such a watch. Among Rolex stone dials, Cacholong holds a special place. It is subtle, elusive, and rarely seen. Unlike stark white enamel, Cacholong feels warm and organic, almost alive. Its depth and subtle glow make it one of the most quietly sophisticated dials ever fitted to a Day-Date. CacholongAt first glance, the dial may appear white. Look closer, and you’ll understand why aficionados appreciate it among the rarest stone dials Rolex ever made: not for bold color or dramatic texture, but for its purity and restraint. Crafted from Cacholong, a delicate variety of opal known for its soft, milky texture and cream-beige undertones, it shifts in hue with the light, never quite the same twice. Cacholong is found in only a few places around the world, including Austria, the Czech Republic, Mongolia, and Uzbekistan. The latter believed to have inspired its name, possibly derived from the Cach River in Bukhara. It also occurs in select regions such as Iceland, Elba, and Nova Scotia. The rarity of the stone, combined with the difficulty of crafting it into a flawless dial, makes each piece unique.This particular 'Swiss only' dial is flawless, showing no cracks, hairlines, or discoloration, which is remarkable for such a fragile mineral. Its diamond hour markers add a discreet touch of luxury, perfectly balancing the dial’s natural softness. ConditionThe 18k yellow gold case retains its strong profile with crisp, well-defined lugs. The fluted bezel remains sharp, catching the light elegantly, while the President bracelet shows minimal stretch and excellent integrity. The overall impression is of a watch that has been worn sparingly and cared for attentively, preserving both its character and originality. The classic Day-Date, elevated by nature’s own craftsmanship.

A study in subtlety: the Cacholong dial. Not every Day-Date seeks attention. Some radiate a quiet refinement understood only by few. 
This 1987 Rolex Day-Date reference 18038 is such a watch. <meta charset="utf-8">Among Rolex stone dials, Cacholong holds a special place. It is subtle, elusive, and rarely seen. Unlike stark white enamel, Cacholong feels warm and organic, almost alive. Its depth and subtle glow make it one of the most quietly sophisticated dials ever fitted to a Day-Date.   Cacholong At first glance, the dial may appear white. Look closer, and you’ll understand why aficionados appreciate it among the rarest stone dials Rolex ever made: not for bold color or dramatic texture, but for its purity and restraint. Crafted from Cacholong, a delicate variety of opal known for its soft, milky texture and cream-beige undertones, it shifts in hue with the light, never quite the same twice.
<meta charset="utf-8">Cacholong is found in only a few places around the world, including Austria, the Czech Republic, Mongolia, and Uzbekistan. The latter believed to have inspired its name, possibly derived from the Cach River in Bukhara. It also occurs in select regions such as Iceland, Elba, and Nova Scotia. The rarity of the stone, combined with the difficulty of crafting it into a flawless dial, makes each piece unique. This particular 'Swiss only' dial is flawless, showing no cracks, hairlines, or discoloration, which is remarkable for such a fragile mineral. Its diamond hour markers add a discreet touch of luxury, perfectly balancing the dial’s natural softness.  <meta charset="utf-8">Condition <meta charset="utf-8">The 18k yellow gold case retains its strong profile with crisp, well-defined lugs. The fluted bezel remains sharp, catching the light elegantly, while the President bracelet shows minimal stretch and excellent integrity. The overall impression is of a watch that has been worn sparingly and cared for attentively, preserving both its character and originality.
<meta charset="utf-8"><meta charset="utf-8">The classic Day-Date, elevated by nature’s own craftsmanship.

Rolex Day-Date 18038 'Cacholong'

Launched in the late 1980s, the Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544 series represents one of the most elusive chapters in Audemars Piguet’s history of gem-set watchmaking. As detailed by Audemars Piguet’s official Chronicles, the Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544 was a transformation of the earlier reference 14486, retaining its midsize case but evolving into a jewellery timepiece through the addition of gem-setting. The watch emerged from Audemars Piguet’s traditional établissage network, bringing together the finest artisans of the era: Stern and Gay Frères of Geneva, responsible respectively for the exquisite gem-set dials and the signature Bracelet 477, and Lascor near Milan, who crafted the elegant 35 mm white-gold cases. Rarity and ProvenanceAccording to the Audemars Piguet archives, only 102 pieces were produced across all materials and configurations between 1987 and 1992, with just 42 in white gold, such as the present example from 1990. The white-gold version of Model 14544 was produced and sold between 1989 and 1992. While the broader Royal Oak Joaillerie family included yellow-gold and two-tone yellow-gold and steel versions, the white-gold variant remains the rarest and most refined. Each piece was fitted with a white-gold dial fully paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, the hour markers replaced by rubies, sapphires, or emeralds. Only two examples of the emerald-set 14544BC are known today. One surfaced publicly at Phillips Geneva in 2022, achieving CHF 132,300 (approximately USD 164,000 today). The example offered here carries the consecutive serial number to that very watch. A detail that places it within an extraordinary micro-series of historically significant Royal Oaks. ConditionThis example remains in very good condition displaying the sharp edges and surface definition expected of well-preserved watch. The emerald baguette hour markers retain their sparkle while the factory diamond pavé dial radiates uniform brilliance across its surface. The watch is accompanied by the Audemars Piguet official service invoice and an Official Certificate of Gemstones. In a world where rarity is often overstated, this Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544BC is a genuine anomaly. It embodies everything Collectors Gallery Dubai stands for: provenance, preservation, and passion.

Launched in the late 1980s, the Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544 series represents one of the most elusive chapters in Audemars Piguet’s history of gem-set watchmaking.
As detailed by Audemars Piguet’s official Chronicles, the Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544 was a transformation of the earlier reference 14486, retaining its midsize case but evolving into a jewellery timepiece through the addition of gem-setting.
<meta charset="utf-8">The watch emerged from Audemars Piguet’s traditional établissage network, bringing together the finest artisans of the era: Stern and Gay Frères of Geneva, responsible respectively for the exquisite gem-set dials and the signature Bracelet 477, and Lascor near Milan, who crafted the elegant 35 mm white-gold cases.
Rarity and Provenance <meta charset="utf-8">According to the Audemars Piguet archives, only 102 pieces were produced across all materials and configurations between 1987 and 1992, with just 42 in white gold, such as the present example from 1990. The white-gold version of Model 14544 was produced and sold between 1989 and 1992.
While the broader Royal Oak Joaillerie family included yellow-gold and two-tone yellow-gold and steel versions, the white-gold variant remains the rarest and most refined. Each piece was fitted with a white-gold dial fully paved with brilliant-cut diamonds, the hour markers replaced by rubies, sapphires, or emeralds. 
Only two examples of the emerald-set 14544BC are known today. One surfaced publicly at Phillips Geneva in 2022, achieving CHF 132,300 (approximately USD 164,000 today). The example offered here carries the consecutive serial number to that very watch. A detail that places it within an extraordinary micro-series of historically significant Royal Oaks.
Condition This example remains in very good condition displaying the sharp edges and surface definition expected of well-preserved watch. The emerald baguette hour markers retain their sparkle while the factory diamond pavé dial radiates uniform brilliance across its surface. The watch is accompanied by the Audemars Piguet official service invoice and an Official Certificate of Gemstones.
<meta charset="utf-8">In a world where rarity is often overstated, this Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544BC is a genuine anomaly. It embodies everything Collectors Gallery Dubai stands for: provenance, preservation, and passion.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Joaillerie 14544BC

Lapis Lazuli has been admired for over six thousand years. Once reserved for pharaohs, kings, and artists who ground its pigment into ultramarine for Renaissance paintings. Here, Rolex shaped it into one of their most captivating creations: a natural stone dial that could never be repeated. Introduced at the tail end of the 1970s, the 18038 marked a new chapter for the Day-Date, featuring the improved caliber 3055 movement with its quickset date function.A Dial Cut From the Earth ItselfThis stunning example from 1979 pairs the unmistakable presence of yellow gold with a dial cut from one of nature’s most beautiful stones. Bright blue in tone, the Lapis reveals dark blue mineral clouds and subtle pyrite inclusions that glimmer like gold dust under light. All evenly spread across the dial, forming a composition that feels both cosmic and timeless. No two Lapis dials are ever the same, but this one stands out for its exceptional balance of color and texture.ConditionThis particular example remains in outstanding condition. The case and lugs retain its sharp edges and finishes, while all hallmarks are still very deep. Also, the fluted bezel is crisp. Most importantly, the dial is flawless: the stone surface is smooth, even, and full of depth. The bracelet is tight and shows very little signs of wear. We’ll admit it. At Collectors Gallery Dubai, we’re hopelessly in love with Lapis Lazuli. Every dial tells its own story, and this one speaks fluently in blue.

Rolex Day-Date 18038 'Lapis Lazuli'

In the world of fine watchmaking, few creations embody the spirit of mechanical mastery and enduring elegance quite like the perpetual calendar chronograph. It is a complication reserved for the most esteemed maisons — and in this realm, Patek Philippe stands unrivalled. Introduced in 1986, the reference 3970 succeeded the legendary reference 2499, a model hailed as one of the most iconic and collectible watches of the 20th century. With the 3970, Patek Philippe did not merely continue a legacy — it elevated it. This particular piece, the reference 3970EP, is part of the fourth and final series, crafted in 1996 and housed in the most precious of metals — platinum (E for étanche, or water-resistant; P for platinum). As a fourth series 3970EP, this watch represents the culmination of a lineage — a clean and contemporary font, perfectly refined sub-dials and elegant hands. It is the final and most refined expression of one of Patek Philippe’s most beloved models. What sets this example apart is not only its pedigree, but its impeccable condition. The 36 mm case remains crisp and full, with beautifully defined lines, hallmarks, and satin and mirror finishes. The original pump pushers are sharp and responsive, and the sapphire case back reveals a pristine, hand-finished CH 27-70 Q manual-winding movement — a horological marvel based on the Lemania 2310 and brought to life with Patek Philippe’s legendary artisanal finishing. The opaline silver dial is flawlessly preserved, displaying applied baton hour markers and slender feuille hands, all in perfect harmony. At 12 o’clock, twin apertures showcase the day and month (in English), while the other sub dials offer: At 9 o’clock, running seconds and a 24-hour indicator. At 3 o’clock, a 30-minute chronograph counter and a leap year indicator. At 6 o’clock, a romantic moon phase surrounded by a date ring. The watch is presented on a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, secured by a platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp, and is accompanied by an official Extract from the Archives, confirming its production in 1996. The 3970EP is an icon, blending technical brilliance, aesthetic purity, and horological heritage.

In the world of fine watchmaking, few creations embody the spirit of mechanical mastery and enduring elegance quite like the perpetual calendar chronograph. 
It is a complication reserved for the most esteemed maisons — and in this realm, Patek Philippe stands unrivalled. Introduced in 1986, the reference 3970 succeeded the legendary reference 2499, a model hailed as one of the most iconic and collectible watches of the 20th century. With the 3970, Patek Philippe did not merely continue a legacy — it elevated it.
This particular piece, the reference 3970EP, is part of the fourth and final series, crafted in 1996 and housed in the most precious of metals — platinum (E for étanche, or water-resistant; P for platinum). <meta charset="utf-8">As a fourth series 3970EP, this watch represents the culmination of a lineage — a clean and contemporary font, perfectly refined sub-dials and elegant hands. It is the final and most refined expression of one of Patek Philippe’s most beloved models. 
What sets this example apart is not only its pedigree, but its impeccable condition. The 36 mm case remains crisp and full, with beautifully defined lines, hallmarks, and satin and mirror finishes. The original pump pushers are sharp and responsive, and the sapphire case back reveals a pristine, hand-finished CH 27-70 Q manual-winding movement — a horological marvel based on the Lemania 2310 and brought to life with Patek Philippe’s legendary artisanal finishing.
The opaline silver dial is flawlessly preserved, displaying applied baton hour markers and slender feuille hands, all in perfect harmony. At 12 o’clock, twin apertures showcase the day and month (in English), while the other sub dials offer:
<ul data-end="2436" data-start="2052">
<li data-end="2181" data-start="2052">
At 9 o’clock, running seconds and a 24-hour indicator.
</li>
<li data-end="2294" data-start="2182">
At 3 o’clock, a 30-minute chronograph counter and a leap year indicator.
</li>
<li data-end="2436" data-start="2295">
At 6 o’clock, a romantic moon phase surrounded by a date ring.
</li>
</ul>
The watch is presented on a hand-stitched black alligator leather strap, secured by a platinum Patek Philippe deployant clasp, and is accompanied by an official Extract from the Archives, confirming its production in 1996.
The 3970EP is an icon, blending technical brilliance, aesthetic purity, and horological heritage.

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970EP

This Rolex Day-Date reference 1803, born in 1976, is far more than just an exceptionally rare timepiece. It marks a defining moment in the story of Collectors Gallery Dubai: it was one of the first deals ever closed under our name. A few years ago, shortly after opening our doors, we had the privilege of sourcing this very watch for a dear friend and early supporter of our gallery. A collector with a profound appreciation for the bold, expressive language of vintage Day-Dates, he immediately recognised the significance of the piece in terms of its rarity and its place in the broader story of the Day-Date. Purple RoseThe Stella dials created by Rolex in the 1970s were anything but ordinary. Produced in vivid, glossy lacquered finishes and offered in limited numbers for specific markets, they injected colour and character into Rolex’s otherwise pragmatic design language. Among them, Lilac sits in a league of its own: a dream-like tone between soft lavender and baby pink, exuding flamboyance and pure eccentricity. This exact piece was dubbed the “Purple Rose” in Pucci Papaleo’s celebrated Day-Date book. His book shows the allure of Rolex' flagship model and this 1803 being exemplary. In 2015, it took centre stage as a top-lot in Phillips’ ‘Glamorous Day-Date’ auction, cementing its place in the collector canon. Its profile only grew from there. In 2020, Revolution Magazine dedicated a feature to Stella dials with this Lilac example leading the charge. A year later, it was once again honoured, appearing in A Collected Man’s definitive article on Stella dials, serving as the headline image. On these occasions it is pictured with an aftermarket-finished bracelet. However, it is a clear testament to the esteem this very watch holds among the most discerning collectors. ConditionThe watch remains in remarkable condition. The 18k yellow gold case is sharp, with strong lugs and a crisp fluted bezel. It is fitted to a period correct original yellow gold Jubilee bracelet, which retains excellent tension and presence on the wrist. The glossy Lilac lacquer dial is flawless, with rich, even colour and beautiful depth. It's easily one of the most visually striking dials we’ve seen from the Stella family. The only minor note is a small tear in the luminous material at the 1 o’clock hour marker, a subtle imperfection that does little to distract from the overall integrity of the piece. This is not just a rare Day-Date. It’s an icon, a piece of history, and a part of our own gallery’s foundation.

Rolex Day-Date 1803 'Lilac Stella'

Some watches carry stories that travel across continents, through royal courts, and into the hands of true collectors. This is one of those watches.We are proud to offer a rare Rolex Day-Date reference 1803 from 1978, crafted in solid 18k yellow gold and fitted with a breathtaking Blue Stella dial. Few dials captivate the eye like this one, a color so vivid it almost seems to glow. The shade sits perfectly between sky blue and ocean turquoise, shimmering with a rich depth. Asprey Signed Case & Arabic Calendar: A Royal ConnectionThe watch’s case back is stamped with the ‘Asprey’ signature, an elite hallmark that speaks to a very specific piece of Rolex history. Rolex and Asprey of London had a well-documented relationship, particularly in the 1970s, when Asprey served as the official supplier of luxury goods to royal families in the Middle East, including the Sultanate of Oman. Asprey acted as the intermediary for special-order Rolex watches, often commissioning Rolex watches with Arabic calendars, unique dial configurations, and sometimes national emblems. This watch, fitted with Arabic day and date discs and signed by Asprey, strongly suggests that it was a private commission destined for Oman or a royal gift connected to the Sultan himself. Inside the case back, the serial number is hand-stamped and repeated—a detail typically reserved for special-order Rolex watches supplied through Asprey. This additional signature provides further evidence of the watch’s bespoke nature and links it to a very exclusive lineage of Rolex production.ConditionThe dial is in immaculate condition: free from cracks, hairlines, or the common flaws typically seen on Stella dials of this age. It has survived in a near-perfect state, preserving its glossy lacquer surface and crisp printing. The perfect lume plots and lume in the hands have developed a warm, even patina that complements the richness of the yellow gold case and the vivid turquoise dial. The case is thick and shows minimal sings of wear. The lugs are crisp and well-preserved with strong edges and well-defined finishing. The fluted bezel is sharp, and the original vintage President bracelet with folding clasp shows minimal stretch. It shows some minor signs of wear on the clasp. This Day-Date remains in collector-grade condition throughout. Found here in the Middle East, this watch is a perfect fit within the Collectors Gallery, where rarity, heritage, and exceptional taste converge. Now offered for sale and ready to find a new owner who will appreciate its story as much as we do.

Some watches carry stories that travel across continents, through royal courts, and into the hands of true collectors. This is one of those watches. We are proud to offer a rare Rolex Day-Date reference 1803 from 1978, crafted in solid 18k yellow gold and fitted with a breathtaking Blue Stella dial. Few dials captivate the eye like this one, a color so vivid it almost seems to glow. The shade sits perfectly between sky blue and ocean turquoise, shimmering with a rich depth. Asprey Signed Case &amp; Arabic Calendar: A Royal Connection The watch’s case back is stamped with the ‘Asprey’ signature, an elite hallmark that speaks to a very specific piece of Rolex history. Rolex and Asprey of London had a well-documented relationship, particularly in the 1970s, when Asprey served as the official supplier of luxury goods to royal families in the Middle East, including the Sultanate of Oman.
Asprey acted as the intermediary for special-order Rolex watches, often commissioning Rolex watches with Arabic calendars, unique dial configurations, and sometimes national emblems. This watch, fitted with Arabic day and date discs and signed by Asprey, strongly suggests that it was a private commission destined for Oman or a royal gift connected to the Sultan himself.
Inside the case back, the serial number is hand-stamped and repeated—a detail typically reserved for special-order Rolex watches supplied through Asprey. This additional signature provides further evidence of the watch’s bespoke nature and links it to a very exclusive lineage of Rolex production. Condition <meta charset="utf-8">The dial is in immaculate condition: free from cracks, hairlines, or the common flaws typically seen on Stella dials of this age. It has survived in a near-perfect state, preserving its glossy lacquer surface and crisp printing. <meta charset="utf-8">The perfect lume plots and lume in the hands have developed a warm, even patina that complements the richness of the yellow gold case and the vivid turquoise dial.
The case is thick and shows minimal sings of wear. The lugs are crisp and well-preserved with strong edges and well-defined finishing. The fluted bezel is sharp, and the original vintage President bracelet with folding clasp shows minimal stretch. It shows some minor signs of wear on the clasp. This Day-Date remains in collector-grade condition throughout.
<meta charset="utf-8">Found here in the Middle East, this watch is a perfect fit within the Collectors Gallery, where rarity, heritage, and exceptional taste converge. Now offered for sale and ready to find a new owner who will appreciate its story as much as we do.

Rolex Day-Date 1803 'Blue Stella & Asprey'

A Rare White Gold Datejust with a Dial as Deep as the Sea The Rolex Datejust is, without question, one of the most versatile and enduring watches ever made. But every so often, an example surfaces that transcends utility and becomes something far more poetic. This reference 1601/9, crafted in 18k white gold and dating to 1974, does exactly that—thanks to a breathtaking Lapis Lazuli dial. Lapis Lazuli is among the most coveted materials Rolex has ever used. Unlike regular dials, each Lapis dial is cut from natural stone—meaning no two are alike. The piece featured here reveals a vivid, deep blue surface with flowing white inclusions, resembling waves rolling across a calm sea. It’s not just a dial; it’s a living, breathing texture—a snapshot of nature’s artistry, framed by Rolex’s signature precision. The case and bezel are rendered in solid white gold, while the watch is fitted to its original white gold Jubilee bracelet. Think of the context: the Datejust was originally conceived as Rolex’s entry-level model. It was meant to be accessible, clean, and functional. So choosing it in full gold was already an unorthodox statement—but to take it a step further in white gold, and then pair it with a stone dial like Lapis Lazuli, places this example in a category all its own. It speaks to a buyer who wanted quiet sophistication, but with deeply individual taste. The watch remains in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs are well-preserved, retaining their original proportions with clearly visible hallmarks. The white gold fluted bezel is sharp and crisp. The Jubilee bracelet shows no stretch. Most impressively, the Lapis Lazuli dial is flawless—free of cracks or blemishes. Now available through Collectors Gallery Dubai, this 1601/9 is not just a collector's piece—it’s an exceedingly rare slice of natural history, framed in gold and built for the wrist.

A Rare White Gold Datejust with a Dial as Deep as the Sea
The Rolex Datejust is, without question, one of the most versatile and enduring watches ever made. But every so often, an example surfaces that transcends utility and becomes something far more poetic. This reference 1601/9, crafted in 18k white gold and dating to 1974, does exactly that—thanks to a breathtaking Lapis Lazuli dial.
Lapis Lazuli is among the most coveted materials Rolex has ever used. Unlike regular dials, each Lapis dial is cut from natural stone—meaning no two are alike. The piece featured here reveals a vivid, deep blue surface with flowing white inclusions, resembling waves rolling across a calm sea. It’s not just a dial; it’s a living, breathing texture—a snapshot of nature’s artistry, framed by Rolex’s signature precision.
The case and bezel are rendered in solid white gold, while the watch is fitted to its original white gold Jubilee bracelet. Think of the context: the Datejust was originally conceived as Rolex’s entry-level model. It was meant to be accessible, clean, and functional. So choosing it in full gold was already an unorthodox statement—but to take it a step further in white gold, and then pair it with a stone dial like Lapis Lazuli, places this example in a category all its own. It speaks to a buyer who wanted quiet sophistication, but with deeply individual taste.
The watch remains in excellent condition throughout. The case and lugs are well-preserved, retaining their original proportions with clearly visible hallmarks. The white gold fluted bezel is sharp and crisp. The Jubilee bracelet shows no stretch. Most impressively, the Lapis Lazuli dial is flawless—free of cracks or blemishes.
Now available through Collectors Gallery Dubai, this 1601/9 is not just a collector's piece—it’s an exceedingly rare slice of natural history, framed in gold and built for the wrist.

Rolex Datejust 1601/9 'Lapis Lazuli'

They don’t make them like this anymore. This is not just a yellow gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — it's a fully open worked example of one of the most iconic perpetual calendar Royal Oaks ever made. Reference 25829BA takes the familiar silhouette of the 25820 and transforms it into a mechanical showcase, revealing the movement in all its intricate detail. Originally introduced in 1983, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was AP’s bold move to blend ultra-thin haute horlogerie complications with the rugged sport-luxury look of Gerald Genta’s masterpiece. It was a first of its kind, and it set the tone for complicated luxury sports watches going forward. At the heart of it all is the legendary calibre 2120/2802, built on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 ébauche—an ultra-thin movement famously used in icons like the original 'Jumbo' Royal Oak 5402, the original 'Jumbo' Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700, and Vacheron Constantin's 222. The 25829BA is fully skeletonized, offering a captivating view of the intricate network of gears, levers, and perpetual calendar functions. Through both the dial and sapphire caseback, the craftsmanship becomes apparent—the bridges are beautifully engraved with delicate vine motifs, and the openworked 21k gold rotor is a work of art in itself, featuring meticulous decoration that adds an extra layer of elegance and refinement to the movement. Crafted entirely in 18k yellow gold, the 39mm case retains the original ‘Jumbo’ proportions and iconic Royal Oak architecture. This piece was delivered in 2007 and comes with the official Extract from the Archives from Audemars Piguet confirming its production and sale. The condition of this timepiece is excellent, with a well-preserved case and a sharp and thick bezel. The watch barely shows any signs of wear. The bracelet is in great shape and shows no stretch. Overall, this watch has been maintained carefully, remaining an attractive and high-quality example. Collector? Flexer? Doesn’t matter. This Royal Oak is here to show off, and it’s doing it in style.

They don’t make them like this anymore.
This is not just a yellow gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak — it's a fully open worked example of one of the most iconic perpetual calendar Royal Oaks ever made. Reference 25829BA takes the familiar silhouette of the 25820 and transforms it into a mechanical showcase, revealing the movement in all its intricate detail.
Originally introduced in 1983, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was AP’s bold move to blend ultra-thin haute horlogerie complications with the rugged sport-luxury look of Gerald Genta’s masterpiece. It was a first of its kind, and it set the tone for complicated luxury sports watches going forward. At the heart of it all is the legendary calibre 2120/2802, built on the Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 ébauche—an ultra-thin movement famously used in icons like the original 'Jumbo' Royal Oak 5402, the original 'Jumbo' Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700, and Vacheron Constantin's 222.
The 25829BA is fully skeletonized, offering a captivating view of the intricate network of gears, levers, and perpetual calendar functions. Through both the dial and sapphire caseback, the craftsmanship becomes apparent—the bridges are beautifully engraved with delicate vine motifs, and the openworked 21k gold rotor is a work of art in itself, featuring meticulous decoration that adds an extra layer of elegance and refinement to the movement.
Crafted entirely in 18k yellow gold, the 39mm case retains the original ‘Jumbo’ proportions and iconic Royal Oak architecture. This piece was delivered in 2007 and comes with the official Extract from the Archives from Audemars Piguet confirming its production and sale.
The condition of this timepiece is excellent, with a well-preserved case and a sharp and thick bezel. The watch barely shows any signs of wear. The bracelet is in great shape and shows no stretch. Overall, this watch has been maintained carefully, remaining an attractive and high-quality example.
Collector? Flexer? Doesn’t matter. This Royal Oak is here to show off, and it’s doing it in style.

Collection( 28 )

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Rolex Day-Date 18388 'Rubies & Diamonds'Sold

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790BC 'Salmon'Sold

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Rolex Day-Date 18038 'Lapis Lazuli'Sold

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph 3970EPSold

Rolex Day-Date 1803 'Lilac Stella'Sold

Rolex Day-Date 1803 'Blue Stella & Asprey'Sold

Rolex Datejust 1601/9 'Lapis Lazuli'Sold

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 'Skeleton' 25829BASold